Robert Paul Hudson's AB Blog

My first time trimming HC (and possibly last)

2010-03-28T17:59:00.000-07:00

My first time trimming HC (and possibly last)

Facebook | Planted Aquarium Central: Backyard rock hunting

2010-03-28T15:20:00.000-07:00

Facebook Planted Aquarium Central: Backyard rock hunting

Extreme Planted Nanos

2009-09-13T18:21:00.000-07:00

The Extreme Planted Nano
By Robert Paul Hudson
photos and text appeared in Tropical Fish Hobbyist magazine

When most people enter the aquarium hobby for the first time, they begin with a small affordable aquarium while yearning for something bigger- usually much bigger!

Some experienced hobbyists are reverting the other direction to smaller and smaller aquariums and paludariums. Using freshwater plants it is possible to take this to the extreme.

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Rony Suzuki's Bird-Feeder Aquarium
Container and size: plastic bird-feeder pot that goes into birdcages. 100 ml of nominal volume
Flora: Hemianthus callitrichoides and Java Moss.
Substrate: Pool filter sand

When a friend told Rony Suzuki about a news story that the worlds smallest fish had been discovered in Asia, (Paedocypris progenetica), he took this as a challenge to create the smallest planted aquarium that could house such a creature if the fish were to become commercially available. With a magnifying glass you can see the detail of an aquascape featuring a light green ground cover, rocks, and dark green moss that to scale looks like tall background plants!

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Rony Suzuki's Cracker Box Paludarium

Feeling his creative juices flowing, Rony turned his attention to a plastic tray container that was meant to store crackers! In his eyes it was a paludarium that could host an intricate design of plants and rocks. “I had initially decided to grow some more Hemianthus callitrichoides, and for that I bought this really nice plastic pot for storing crackers. I added garden soil, earthworm compost, covered it with pool filter sand, filled with water and planted a few cuttings of Hemianthus. Since there was some space left I decided to put in a bit of moss as well. There was still some space to put in a Hydrocotyle sp., and I also took the opportunity to add a few shoots of Eleocharis parvula.”, explained Rony as if it was just all thrown together by chance.

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Fábio Yoshida's Light-Bulb Aquarium
Aquarium: 250 W Light Bulb.
Dimensions: ~79 mm in diameter.
Volume: ~250 ml.
Substrate: pool filter sand.
Lighting: indirect, but applied directly a few days a week.
Flora: Anubias nana.

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Fábio Yoshida's Flower-Tube Aquarium
Aquarium: Flower tube with stand.
Dimensions: 140x37 mm cylinder.
Volume: ~150 ml (nominal).
Substrate: pool filter sand.
Lighting: indirect
Flora: Lilaeopsis brasiliensis.

Not to be out done by his friend, Fábio Yoshida had his own ideas for extreme nanos. By removing the metal socket of a light bulb from the glass without breaking it, Fábio was able to fill the bulb with sand, water, and one small Anubias plant. “The setup didn't take too long to be completed, it was even quick, I think about 3 or 4 hours in total”, he reports.

Next Fábio turned his attention to a small glass tube. With a long pair of tweezers he carefully planted Lilaeopsis brasiliensis, which in normal size aquariums is used as a foreground plant! Fabio points out “This setup was MUCH easier to plant than the bulb, since the tank's “mouth” is larger than the bulb's.”

Creating your own extreme nano

To create your own extreme plant nano, you simply need a container, a growing medium, water, and light. You would be surprised what you may find from your own shelves and cupboards, but thrift shops are great places to find unique looking glassware, vases, and oddities that can be easily transformed to aquaria art. If it holds water, a plant can grow in it.

Choosing the right plants

The smaller the container you use, the smaller the plants need to be to create something to scale, otherwise it just looks like a plant crammed into a container that is too small to house it.

A couple of examples: Hemianthus callitrichoides is one of the smallest known aquatic plants used in the hobby. Only in the past year has it become commercially available in the USA under the name dwarf baby tears. This carpet plant hugs the substrate and contours with the surface like a surgical glove. It can be easily used to cover a hill or sloping surface, wood, or even rock. Its’ leaves are barely bigger than a pinhead and is rarely taller than an inch.

Anubias nana petite is a cultivated miniature version of A. nana. The petite leaves at maturity grow to be no bigger than a thumbnail and grow in thick clusters on a creeping rhizome.

Various grass like plants that grow to a height of a few inches would be suitable as middle to background plants in extreme nanos, and dark green moss like plants such as
Monosolenium tenerum and Vesicularia dubyana when grown attached to an object may be used at scale from low to the substrate to the highest levels of the nano container. Choose plants not only for size but to create contrast in color and shape.

I found what looks like a glass brandy snifter, but originally was filled with candy. I filled it just shy of half way with black quartz sand that someone had given me years before. In the center I placed one Anubias nana petite plant and a small lava rock with Monosolenium tenerum attached to it, on either side of the nana. In front I carefully planted several tiny bunches of Hemianthus callitrichoides. One small pond snail has made himelf at home and the plants have grown under a 13 watt desk lamp to cover the entire area within a couple weeks. I use airline tubing as a siphon to change the water. It was easy to set up and yet gave me a feeling of accomplishment that I created something unique and beautiful, and I understand the pride that Rony and Fabio must have felt in creating such an extreme nano.

Robert Paul Hudson, an avid hobbyist for over ten years has operated the WEB site www.aquabotanic.com since 1999, writes the Planted Tank column for Freshwater and Marine Aquarium magazine, and has contributed to numerous magazines and club newsletters always striving to educate the hobbyist and put the spot light on the aquarium plant hobby.

Import Report

2009-09-13T15:10:00.000-07:00

Eriocaulon 'thailand'

The Import Report
By Robert Paul Hudson
appeared in Tropical Fish Hobbyist magazine

Eriocaulon sp
Eriocaulon is a genus of over 400 species in the family Eriocaulaceae which are found in Asia, Europe, Australia, and North America. Commonly called pipewort, these unique looking plants are highly sought after by serious plant collectors. Most of the rare species come from Asian and Australian shallow acid peat bogs, which must be recreated in the aquarium.

Eriocaulon sp Australia type 2 is a collector specie that grows to a maximum height of about five inches. Soft-acidic water, elevated C02, moderate light and peat in the substrate is what this plant needs to thrive.

Eriocaulon sp Thailand comes from black water pools in the Thai jungle, and this unassuming little plant brings a delicate touch to the aquascape. Eriocaulon species resemble plants in the related families Cyperaceae, (sedges) and Juncaceae (rushes). This specie looks like a miniature pin cushion.

Imported from: A very exclusive trade primarily in Japan and Singapore. On the rare occasion these plants are imported into the USA, they come from Singapore.

Bacopa australis

This variety of Bacopa is a new comer to the American hobby, but is well known in Europe. It has a thinner, softer stem and a smaller, lighter green leaf than the more common species in America. As long as you have ample light and C02, the plant is unproblematic and highly decorative. The plant was discovered in Brazil and is not native to Australia as the name may suggest. The stems branch easily to create a bushy group and the color is a nice contrast to darker plants. Although it does not have huge light demands, care should be taken to not allow it to be over shadowed by larger plants.

Imported from: Asian and European growers. Now grown in Florida commercially

Cryptocoryne wendtii Florida Sunset

“Florida Sunset” is an exciting new plant from Florida Aquatic Nurseries that is a variant of the import favorite “wendtii mi oya”, which is a red colored regional variant that comes from the Oya river in Sri Lanka. The Florida Sunset is named for its variegated leaves that exhibit a rainbow of colors ranging from different shades of green, pink, red, yellow, orange, and white all in one plant. Each leaf of each plant is unique looking with different coloration and marking. Even the white areas have a hint of color underneath and red veins showing thru. Like its parent Mi Oya, Florida Sunset can grow under most light conditions from low to high and most water conditions- soft to hard, making it an ideal choice for the hobbyist.

Imported from: mother plant “Mi Oya” is imported from Asian growers. “Florida sunset” is a cultivar from Florida.

Rotala sp green

Thought to possibly belong to the same species as Rotala rotundifolia, this highly decorative plant has been popular in Europe since first introduced by the Danish company Tropica Plants in 1998. It grows without effort under moderate light or higher and in either soft or hard water, and quickly grows into a thick stand that can be easily controlled and shaped by regular pruning. It has recently become a staple in Japanese aquascaping. It is easily propagated thru cutting and re-planting of the stems.

Imported from Asian and European growers

Nesaea golden

Nesaea pedicellata is native to West Africa and is occasionally imported into the USA. It has yellowish green leaves and brown stems, and is a relatively simple plant. A variant or mutation was discovered that sported solid golden yellow leaves and red stems. Selective reproduction and growing produced a stable strain that is now available thru Florida Aquatic Nurseries distributors and dealers under the name Nesaea golden.

It is a beautiful stem plant that brings an elegant color to the aquarium design. Medium to high light and temperatures below 80 degrees F make this plant suitable for most hobbyists. The stems will grow side shoots that can be propagated or left to grow to create a thicker and wider bush. Cut stems will branch, but the new growth on a cut stem is much thinner and weaker. For this reason, people often replant the cutting and throw out the rooted base to retain thicker stronger stems.

Imported from: Parent plant is imported from African collectors, and Asian and European growers. The “golden” variety is a cultivar from Florida.

Echinodorus cordifolius harbich

The Harbich Sword was developed from a mutation found in E. cordifolius by a nursery in Europe. The plant stays small and the leaves tend to curl inward to create a cup like appearance. Like most sword plants it is a heavy root feeder and does well under moderate to bright light. This variety is somewhat more likely to suffer iron deficiency if iron is not provided in the substrate. From an artistic standpoint, the plant is an excellent choice for the mid ground in larger tanks, and the background in nano tanks. There are other cordifolius mutated strains and hybrids, such as the “marble queen sword” which is a variegated leaf showing a swirl of white and green. If growth seems to come to a halt, or the leaves are showing signs of stress, simply add a fertilizer tablet into the substrate next to the plants.

Imported from: Originated in Europe, exported from Asia. Now in production in Florida.

Echinodorus vesuvius

Possibly a variant of E. angustifolius, very little has been written about this plant, but it has become very popular thru out Europe and is now beginning to reach the USA. I hope this plant is picked up by American commercial growers because it is so unique looking and extremely easy to grow. The leaves twist and curl as they grow straight up and the width of the leaves can vary from narrow to wide on the same plant. It is often a combination of a twist like a corkscrew and curled like a ribbon on a present. It needs only moderate light or better and is not particular about water conditions. It spreads easily and quickly by ground level runners that produce new plants. Its maximum height is only 12 to 15 inches making it ideal for most any size aquarium.

Imports from: Originates from Europe. Rarely imported into the USA.

Marsilea minuta

Marsilea is often called aquatic four- leaf clover, but is actually a type of fern. Above water the nodes have four lobes that look exactly like four leaf clover! When grown under water the plants usually retain only one or two lobes. Mostly Marsilea species have been used as an ornamental pond edge plants, but in recent years it has gained popularity as an aquarium plant to create a ground cover type foreground. Marsilea minuta is a more recent addition to the hobby over more common species of Marsilea. This particular variety is popular because it is much smaller and shorter in height. Marsilea minuta is the widest distributed species of the genus and also the most variable. There may be some variation in size depending on its origin. It is native to Africa, Asia, and Australia, and has recently been found in Florida. The plant grows in swamps, stagnant water, edges of rivers and seasonally flooded land. It also occurs in wet rice fields, where it sometimes becomes a nuisance forming large and dense colonies.

People have found other uses for this plant- leaves of Marsilea minuta are tender and eaten as a potherb in Senegal, Gambia and India. In Nigeria the extract of whole Marsilea plants is used as aphrodisiac and for increased fertility, while in India the leaf juice of Marsilea minuta is used to stop nose bleeding and indigestion.

Marsilea minuta is one of the few plants that can be used to create a thick carpet like foreground in low light tanks. It is a slow growing plant and requires patience for it to cover the foreground, but is easy to control for this reason.

When planting, like most carpet plants you want to divide the clump of nodes into smaller pieces and space them across the area that you want your carpet to fill. Two to three leaves on each clump or runner should be enough to seed the area and for the plant to fill in the gaps as it spreads. This cute little plant is perfect for someone new to the hobby or starting out with a small aquarium.

Imported from: Asia or Australia

Anubias minima

Anubias plants have been very popular in the hobby for decades for their almost indestructible nature. Growing under very subdued lighting and with little special effort, these plants with their thick fleshy leaves and dark green color have become the most widely used plant in the hobby. Anubias barteri var glabra, otherwise known as Anubias minima is no exception. It grows easily with subdued light either underwater or above water in humid air. It can be attached to wood or rock, or take root in the substrate. The leaves are elongated with wavy edges and sometimes naturally variegated in color. It can grow to be fairly large, but since it is such a slow grower, it may still be suitable for smaller aquariums for a year or so. It is usually left alone by fish that like to nibble on plants and is secure enough to withstand fish that like to dig making it suitable for cichlids, goldfish, and other fish that are often hard to keep with plants.

The leaves grow from a thick horizontal root called a rhizome. A large plant may be divided into several plants by cutting the rhizome cleanly between leaves.

Its native habitat is West Africa where is grows attached firmly to rocks in water or in muddy soil, and under either full shade or full sunlight. It is highly adaptable to a wide range of water conditions, but the most ideal would be soft to medium hard water. Any hobbyist should be able to keep this plant with great success!

Imported from: West Africa. Now cultivated in Florida.

The Fiddler Crab

2009-09-13T14:57:00.000-07:00

The Fiddler Crab
by Robert Paul Hudson
appeared in FAMA magazine

They don’t play a tune, but the Fiddler crab puts on an entertaining show! You may have seen them in your pet store, bright red and sporting one claw several sizes too big for its body, or if you have visited out of the way coastal beaches you may have seen them doing the side step in the sand and beach grass.

A few years ago, I took a trip up the northern coast of California. Somewhere between San Francisco and Eureka I pulled off the highway and climbed down a steep bank to a somewhat remote beach. As I reached the withdrawing tide I began to notice hundreds of little red crabs scurrying around the rocks and little tide pools. As I walked back away from the rocks I continued to see them darting across the sand, in between the beach grass and on and around washed up driftwood. I was fascinated by these creatures and was anxious to learn more about them.

The Fiddler crab consists of approximately 97 species of semi terrestrial marine crabs within the genus Uca, and belonging to the family Ocypodidae. These two inch creatures find their home in mangroves, salt marshes, and sandy or muddy beaches of the eastern and western shores of North America, as well as West Africa and the Indo-Pacific.

These amphibious crabs are characterized by a rectangle carapace, (shell), and a narrow abdomen which is flexed under the body. Adorned with the name Fiddler because of the one oversized claw of the male that is often held in front of the body like a fiddle, the club like claw is swung back and forth in a ritual courtship of the female and to rattle the nerves of rival males. The females have two small claws of equal size.

Cycle of life

The life story of the creatures of the mud is short by our standards- two years in the wild and up to three years in captivity if properly cared for. The day in the life of a Fiddler includes digging a burrow, sifting thru sand for microscopic food, attracting a mate, avoiding being a meal to shore birds, bullfrogs, raccoons, or turtles, and molting the shell to grow another.

As they ease themselves out of their old shell, you can see a whole new set of eight legs and two claws retracted inside. If a leg or claw is lost, it will grow back inside the shell and be in wait for the next molt. If a male looses his large claw, it will re-grow on the opposite side and appear with the next molt. An ample supply of calcium must be in the water in order for the Uca to grow a strong new shell. Sometimes the crab will consume part or all of the discarded shell to ingest more calcium.

Fiddler Love

After the ritual flexing of the big claw and mating, the female Uca carries the fertilized eggs under her flexed abdomen. Fertilized female fiddler crabs carry hundreds to thousands of eggs. After an adult female molts, the soft shell condition allows her to become impregnated by a male. The soft-shelled female and the hard-shelled male sometimes remain together for protection until her carapace begins to harden. She remains in her burrow during a two-week gestation, after which she embarks out to release her eggs into the receding tide. When the eggs are ready, the mother goes into the water and allows the eggs to hatch into microscopic free-swimming larvae. The early stage larvae are known as Zoea. The larvae live in the open water as part of the plankton. The larvae remain planktonic for two more weeks. As they grow, they go through a number of molt stages. Older larvae are known as Megalopa. At the end of the final larval stage, the larvae molt into immature crabs. The amount of time spent as a swimming larvae varies among species, but ranges from a few weeks to a few months. In captivity the female may lay her eggs, but the successful rearing of the larvae is impossible. The larvae need the deep ocean water to grow before they return to shore at maturity.

Crab anatomy

Crabs have 5 pairs of legs consisting of one pair of chelipeds (pincers or claws), three pairs of walking legs, and one pair of swimming legs. The claws are used for feeding, excavating burrows, defense and signaling. The crab body is protected by a rigid exoskeleton, a tough chitinous “skin” that completely covers all parts of the body. As the crab grows, the exoskeleton is periodically shed in a process called molting (ecdysis). What is left is what looks like a translucent creature without a body. In a few hours, the molted crab absorbs enough water to swell its body by about ten to twenty percent and the exoskeleton hardens. The crab body then grows to fill the new exoskeleton. The body is protected by the carapace, (shell), covering the head/thorax, and the crab can pull the legs under the carapace presenting a tougher challenge for a would- be predator.

Under the front of the carapace are two eyes on stalks, two antennae, and a mouth that has several movable parts. The small chelipeds can move food into the mouth at a surprising rate. Two gill structures are located on the sides in the body cavity under the carapace. As long as these gills are kept wet, crabs can live out of the water; since, the gills can only process the oxygen as long as they are wet.

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Fiddle Facts

· Adult Fiddlers are poor swimmers
· During the day Fiddlers are dark in color: at night they are pale
· Love to climb up anything
· Eyes are on top of stalks and their mouth is in the middle of their chest!
· There are no freshwater Fiddlers

Fiddler Pets

Ucas are not a cuddly pet, but they do provide entertaining observation with their waving claws, food scavenging, and climbing ability. The Fiddlers sold in pet stores generally come from brackish water lagoons. Exact specie identification has never been offered. Because of the low salinity of these lagoons, pet stores may call them freshwater crabs, but they cannot survive for more than a few weeks in straight freshwater. There is no such thing as a true freshwater Fiddler crab.

Fiddler Real Estate

A ten- gallon aquarium will house four medium size fiddlers and allow enough space to prevent major squabbles. There must be enough room to have both dry or semi dry sand, and shallow water, along with rocks or driftwood for them to climb and burrow under. My crab house is a twelve- gallon cube tank with a false back that hides a filtration system. Water is sucked in thru a hole at the bottom of the wall, and trickles back in from a hole at the top of the wall. Rock and wood provide hiding places as well as something to climb. Dwarf Mondo grass is growing in the rear to simulate beach grass.

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Materials for a crab-house

Beach sand, (crushed clamshell or coral will help keep the calcium content high) soil, or small light weight gravel that they can dig in
Rocks or driftwood
Short plants that they might climb on but not tall enough to reach the top of the tank
Dry lichen or moss to create bedding and cover in the dry section

Water quality

Ideally a pH over 8.0 and carbonate hardness between 150 and 350 ppm should be a target. Temperature range should be within 75 to 85F, (24-29C). The ideal salinity level is debated, but I have found using one teaspoon of aquarium salt per gallon of water to be a good rule of thumb. Change the water on a weekly basis, particularly if you do not have a filtration system. Replenish the salt once or twice a month, or to be more exact use a hydrometer, which measures the salt level in “gravity”. It is best to maintain a specific gravity of around 1.005 to 1.010.

Fiddler Food

Ucas are scavengers, sifting bits of organic matter they find in sand and mud. The small claw picks up chunks of sediment or sand and rolls it around picking out anything edible such as algae, microbes, or fungus. The rolled up ball is then left behind. Some people place food in bowls for the crabs. I prefer to scatter it in the tank and encourage their scavenging instinct. The diet includes algae, tiny crab pellets, and freeze dried plankton and shrimp. Growth and regular molting are signs of a healthy, happy Fiddler.

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Crab paludarium

From the rear or back corner pile up gravel and sand sloping it downward toward the front, or from one end of the aquarium to the other. Create a mound of rock or wood and place a small amount of dry lichen or dry moss, (not live growing moss) in an area that the crabs can burrow in. You can also use a glass or plastic divider to keep the sand and gravel from slipping down, but make sure the crabs can easily crawl out of the water. Fill the tank with enough water so that the water is two or three inches deep but not covering the raised substrate. Use a de-chlor if your water is chlorinated, and add aquarium salt as directed in this article.

Tank mates

The ultimate crab enclosure could include some live fish that also live in brackish water. Be warned though that although these animals normally eat microscopic food, I have witnessed Fiddlers grab a slow moving fish and consume it.

Success

As long as you provide ample room, a hill or mound that they can climb on, shallow water, something they can dig in, a minimal salinity level, and good diet, you should have many days of enjoyment with these oddly attractive creatures for two to three years.

Planted tank; Aquarium Plant Clubs

2009-09-13T14:31:00.000-07:00

The Planted Tank
Aquarium Plant Clubs
By Robert Paul Hudson

Aquarium clubs and societies have long been an important vehicle for the aquaria hobby to bring people together and drive advances and sharing of knowledge and experience. In recent years hobbyists have formed clubs strictly for the interest in aquarium gardening and it has had the same positive effect for that hobby segment as it has had for more general aquarium societies.
Most of these aquarium garden clubs began by people meeting through internet social networks and discussion forums and getting together for casual plant swap meets. From there it develops to a formal club with a governing body, regular meetings, activities, and fund raisers. Many of these types of clubs have popped up all over the country. One such example is SCAPE, Southern California Aquatic Plant Enthusiasts.

From humble beginnings
The club formed back in 2003 between a few members who traded plants and met from the internet. As interest grew so did the club and it became more organized with club dues and regular meetings. As time went on club members came and went and at some point the club had to re organize to keep going. This is the key to any club becoming well established and achieving longevity: to adapt and survive the constant change of membership. SCAPE serves a large area of southern California from Orange County and Los Angeles to San Diego and the Mexican border. “The expanse of Southern California can present a challenge when you have members that want to put everything they can into a club, but live 3 hours away from each other,” explains Toby Wood, the clubs current President and one of the people involved in the clubs restructure. Toby is amazed at the people he has met thru the club. “We come from all walks of life; we come from all social backgrounds, nationalities, and I see people that I may otherwise never cross paths with. I rarely ever come across anybody that is not kind, helpful, intelligent, personable and fun to be around.”

Lending a helping hand
“The goal of the club is to provide a place where hobbyist can come to share information and resources related to plants, tanks and animals. SCAPE has become a social network of people who have common interest and find they can always learn more about the hobby as they help one another on the web site and at the organized meetings. Members do their best to help each other along with their projects whether it is setting up a new tank for the first time or growing that difficult new rare plant,” said Richard Lien, VP of SCAPE

I asked Toby what the experience level of the membership is and what aspect of the hobby people have the most interest in. “SCAPE has a pretty healthy mix of member skill levels. Overall I would rate the entire membership as upper intermediate to first level advanced in the area of general aquatic gardening and intermediate in the art of aquascaping. I think about 50% of our overall membership are beginners.” Whatever their background is in the hobby, everyone is made to feel welcome and newcomers to the hobby are strongly encouraged to get involved.

Club activities
Typical activities at an aquarium plant club can range from a friendly get together to trade plants and stories, to more formal meetings. Presently SCAPE meets monthly on the third Sunday at a member’s residence. An auction is held followed by friendly discussion. According to the clubs president there are plans to cut back the frequency of the auctions to make room for other activities such as question and answer sessions, contests, and even guest speakers and demonstrations. The monthly meetings have averaged around forty people attending. The clubs web site discussion forum, http://socalaquascapers.com/, has over 600 registered members, of which around 100 people are active contributors.

Clubs and local businesses
Clubs that have an established membership can exert some purchase clout if they know how to use it, as well as develop a relationship with businesses that is mutually beneficial. Toby explains: “Working with local aquarium stores is a big deal for us. We try to encourage our members to support their local store as best as they can and try to promote a bigger focus on planted tanks and aquascaping by requesting them to stock more live plants and products that our members and potential new comers to the hobby would use and purchase. We also like to work with the owners and managers to have them set up discounts for SCAPE members, and many have. A member takes their SCAPE membership card into stores around Southern California and get 10% discounts or greater on livestock or merchandise. We also encourage our members to work with the stores that do sell plants to accept trade in plants for store credit. “Businesses also are sought out to donate merchandise to club raffles and fundraisers, although the economy is making some businesses more conservative in their generosity. “It is mutually supportive because we send business to these stores and in turn they recognize it and help us out by making donations to our raffles,” added John Perrone, the clubs raffle director.

The role of the internet
The internet is an integral part of the ongoing growth and prosperity of the aquarium gardening clubs. Not only for the initial inception of the club and bringing people together, but it is interwoven into the very fabric of the clubs existence. SCAPE’s web site plays an important role to bring people together that are literally hundreds of miles apart that enjoy all the benefits of being a club member even if they are not able to make the monthly meetings. “Even when the meeting is in a central location like Orange County, it will still be too far for some to travel on a Sunday afternoon. Without the internet, the club would be lost to some members.”

Future is bright
“I feel the hobby is growing and clubs such as SCAPE are playing a big role in this. Our efforts to reach out and attract new members have been quite successful. We not only see the same familiar members online and at our meetings but we are continually welcoming new members and seeing new faces on a regular basis,” said Richard. The club is planning to open regional chapters in southern California so more people can take advantage of the face to face meetings.
If you are interested in finding an aquarium gardening club in your area, do a search on the internet and visit various aquatic plant discussion forum web sites such as www.plantedtank.net. You may also find other people in your area from these types of web sites to start your own club or plant swap meet. Heavily populated urban areas are more likely to have clubs or a number of people with the same interest. Being involved with a group of people who share your interest is a very rewarding experience.

Planted tank Q & A

2009-09-13T14:03:00.000-07:00

C. wendtii florida sunset

The Planted Tank
Q and A
By Robert Paul Hudson
　

Hi Robert --
Your articles in the recent invertebrate issue of FAMA were really interesting. When I was a kid I kept fiddler crabs (and crayfish -- not in the same tank), and now I am very much into shrimp. For my wholesale business I have found that the ones that do the best for me, and sell the best, are the Amanos, zebras and cherry. Do you have any experience with any other shrimps that you have found do well?
Take care,
David Lass
From somewhere in outer space

Well Mr. Lass, those are the same species I have kept with great success! From what I understand, any of the Neocardina species and color morphs are the easiest to keep. This includes the Red cherry, white pearl, blue pearl, yellow shrimp, and other variations. They breed prolifically, and their young are born as miniature versions of the adults instead of larval. The more difficult freshwater shrimp are Crystal red shrimp, Caridina cf. cantonensis sp. "Crystal Red" and various filter feeding shrimp. Crystal Shrimp have bands of red and white on them, and have been selectively bred over time to increase the amount and intensity of the white. This resulted in a "grading" scale for Crystal Shrimp. Higher grades are generally more sensitive to water conditions and are not as prolific as lower grade Bee Shrimp. This is most likely due to the intense inbreeding required to achieve the higher grades. The high grade shrimp are very pricey and in some cases selling upwards of a hundred dollars each! You can find more information on various shrimp species at www.theshrimptank.com　
　
My name is Connor. I am 13 and feel I need to redesign my aquarium. My aquarium is 55 gallons and I currently keep (and breed) discus. My aquarium contains a piece of driftwood, 2 rocks and some bamboo and amazon swordplant. My aquarium looks pleasant, however, it looks bland and thrown together (like a 13 year old designed it). My budget is limited and lighting system is low. I have no CO2 system and my lighting system is two 24" fixtures of single 17 watt fluorescent bulbs. I cannot afford anything special, but maybe a simple CO2 system and a few plants. I plan on stripping my tank down - changing the substrate and putting in lots of plants. I would like to cover the aquarium floor with a carpet of Hemianthus callitrichoides along with other nice looking plants. If you could give me suggestions on plants and substrate or even other products, that would be great. Thank you so much for your help.
In a second email, Connor went on…
These are the only two fixtures that are in my price range. One would give me 2.3 watts per gallon the other would give me 4.7 watts per gallon. I want to keep a lot of plants in my 55 gallon discus tank. I know for sure I want to keep dwarf baby tears (hc). Which system is better? I will also have the supplementation of CO2. The fixture is 4 compact fluorescent 65 watt 6700k bulbs if that makes any difference and the other fixture is 2 65 watt compact fluorescent bulbs.
Connor Martin
Sacramento, CA

Connor,
I would suggest going with the two 65 watt fixture, (2.3 watts per gallon). This would give you a moderate growth rate with the addition of C02, and be easier to manage and keep in balance that what double that light intensity would create. With intensive light you will get much faster growth, but the overall balance is much more fragile and could crash easily. You would need a much higher level of C02 with the intensive light, which is not possible with the yeast generated C02 system you told me you will be using.
As far as plants go, I would suggest seeding the foreground area with small bundles of HC, and plant the rest of the aquarium with nothing but fast growing stem plants for the first three or four months and then after that point replace some of the bunch plants with the slower growing plants that you may desire such as Swords, Crinums, Tiger lotus and so forth. The faster growing bunch plants will help break in the tank during the time it is most unstable and while the tank is still cycling. This is an effective way to avoid major algae blooms and large ammonia spikes. I can see you have done your homework on this already and you are off to a good start. Keep up the good work and have patience. Allow plenty of time for your aquarium to develop as it should and you will then have long term success.

Always enjoy your columns in FAMA, especially February's, "Rosette Plants...". You stated in it: "If your aquascape consists mostly of rosette plants in a fertile substrate, instead of stem plants, you'll only need to add fertilizer to the water once in a great while to keep things balanced and to avoid algae problems."I have a 10-gallon tank with five rasboras and two shrimp. I have a large bronze crypt and a Java with big leaves. And some duckweed and a few Java ferns. Everything is growing really well as the tank has been humming along for about five years. I do have a tiny big of algae on the Java leaves. And beginning to get a little more on the glass. (I'm quite diligent about changing water.) And I use Algone once a month.
So I need to add fertilizer? How often and how much and what kind? (Oh dear, have I let my little buddies--plants and animals--down?)
Thanks for your help.
Katharine Downer

Albuquerque, NM

Well your plant load is fairly small, and mostly slow growing. Java fern absorbs all its nutrients from the water through its leaves, so if you are never adding anything to the water the ferns are only able to take what is available from your water supply and from fish excrement and fish food. This limited amount of nutrients has apparently been enough to sustain the plants without explosive growth. I would add a trace mineral liquid fertilizer to the water in very small amounts after each water change for the sake of the ferns. The Duckweed will also benefit from a liquid fertilizer, which you may later regret! Duckweed is so prolific it can be a nuisance. You could also add a fertilizer tablet to the gravel next to the Cryptocorynes to give them a boost. As long as it is deep in the gravel it will not contribute to algae growth. You can experiment a little without much risk to see how far you can push it to get better plant growth without an increase in algae.

Robert, Cryptocoryne wendtii florida sunset is such an awesome looking plant. Is it as easy to grow as other C. wendtii plants?
Adam Martin
via aqua botanic face book site
Indiana

Yes, like any C. wendtii variant, this plant does well in most any freshwater environment. Florida sunset is a cultivated mutation of C. wendtii mi oya, (a regional red variant), and has variegated leaves with multiple shades of red, green, white, yellow, and orange. No two leaves on the same plant look identical. Each plant has its own unique coloration. It was developed by Florida Aquatic Nurseries and is available from their dealers.
The plant is prone to leaf melt within the first 30 days of being planted. This is common in many Cryptocoryne species. It is not always a total melt down, and new leaves begin to grow immediately. Keep the water parameters as stable as possible during this time to minimize or prevent the melt down.

Ferns; the underwater forest

2009-07-11T16:31:00.000-07:00

Needle leaf Java fern

The Planted Tank
Ferns, the underwater forest
By Robert Paul Hudson
　
When I think of ferns, the picture that comes to mind is when I would walk underneath a forest canopy of trees that filters out the sunlight creating cool and misty air that makes the entire day feel like dawn. The forest floor is covered in layers of fallen trees and lush ferns and moss. Entering this world stirs something within me as if I am remembering some primordial experience. What better way to bring a sense of raw nature to the aquarium than incorporating aquatic ferns.

Microsorum pteropus
“Java fern” is one of the most heavily used ferns in our hobby because it is so undemanding and considered one of the easiest aquarium plants to grow. In recent years, various regional growth forms and cultivars have been introduced to the hobby. This includes a narrow leaf version, an ultra narrow leaf version, wide leaf version, bullate leaf, trident leaf, and cultivars Windelov, (lace fern) and Tropica.

The native range of the specie is all over tropical Asia. The leaves grow from a thick rhizome that is best not to bury in the substrate, but instead tied to wood or rock. Above water, the rhizome may be planted in loose soil and grown successfully. Leaves of all the variant growth forms carry spores that look like black dots. The spores are more prevalent when the plant has been grown above water. New plantlets will develop from the spores while still attached to the parent leaf. Even a broken leaf will sprout new plants if it carries spores.

Lighting and water parameters are not that critical for java fern. The plants have been known to grow in soft, hard and even brackish water under very subdued light all the way to very intensive light. Growth rate is relatively slow, but the plant will remain healthy and robust from regular fertilization to the water column. The leaves are tough enough not to be bothered by plant nibbling fish and snails.

Ceratopteris, the Indian fern
Ceratopteris, commonly known as Watersprite, is the fastest growing aquatic fern in the aquarium. With moderate light or better and at least 10ppm of C02, this plant will grow as fast as any stem plant. There are four recognized species of Ceratopteris. Cornuta and thalictroides look somewhat alike, except that thalictroides has finer leaves and has long stems, while cornuta is more stout and wider leaf. Thalictroides grows rooted in the substrate while cornuta may grow floating or in the substrate. Pteridoides is strictly a floating plant with large leaves of very variable shape. I wrote about this plant in my earlier floating plants column. The fourth specie is richardii, which has yet to be introduced to the hobby. Once in a great while you may see reference to a variety called siliquosa. This is generally thought to be synonymous to thalictriodes, but some people insist it has distinctively finer leaves than thalictriodes. These species began in India and much of Asia, but has become naturalized around the world. These ferns bring a very light green/yellow color and fine leaf texture to the aquascape with a fast growth rate that helps to to balance a new aquarium.

Bolbitis heudelotii
African water fern to me looks the most like the ferns I see when hiking in the mountain forests. Highly pinnate, and dark green, it has a very earthy look to it. It is a little more demanding than other ferns. It seems to grow very well in acidic water, although C02 addition may compensate, (if the water is too alkaline, the leaves blacken), and it does particularly well in moving water or when placed in the path of a good current such as the out flow of a filter. It’s native African habitat is in very fast moving rivers among rocks and stones. Like Java fern, it is best not to bury the rhizome. There is another Bolbitis specie from Asia called B. heteroclita that is occasionally imported for the aquarium. I have never found this plant to do well and I do not believe it is really best suited for aquatics.

Marsilea
Marsilea is often called water clover, and to look at it you would not think it was part of the fern family. There are 65 species, several of which that grow in shallow water along the edges of ponds, and a few species that adapt well to growing completely under water. The four lobe leaf turns into only one or two lobes underwater, but creates a nice looking carpet just the same. Quadrifolia is the most readily available specie in the USA, and one of the easiest to grow. Other species such as Hirsuta and Minuta are attractive for their smaller size, but spread much more slowly.

Ferns to avoid
Any terrestrial fern should not be put in an aquarium and one such fern commonly seen sold as an aquarium plant is Trichomanes javanicum, otherwise known as Borneo fern or Aqua fern. While it loves humid, damp air and wet soil, it will only slowly disintegrate underwater. There is nothing I hate more than a decaying plant in my aquarium.

2009-05-03T14:43:00.000-07:00

Cryptocoryne rhizome

The Planted Tank

Rhizomes, Tubers, and bulbs
By Robert Paul Hudson

Many hobbyists are first introduced to aquarium plants when purchasing packs of “easy to grow” plant bulbs that are available in some department stores. Hobbyists also discover what a rhizome is when they attach aquatic ferns and Anubias plants to wood by wrapping thread around that thick, horizontal, root like base that the leaves and roots grow from. These are important parts of the plant structure that are critical for storing nutrients and asexual reproduction. With a greater understanding of this plant anatomy, you can better insure the plants health and vitality.

First, lets briefly discuss the proper definitions of these terms.

Rhizome describes a horizontal stem structure that stores energy and sends out both shoots, (vertical stems, leaves) and roots. It creeps along the surface of the substrate, or just below the surface and may branch. Depending on the plant specie it can vary in appearance from very thick and woody to thin and fleshy.

Tubers, like rhizomes, are enlarged stems that store nutrients, however tubers have multiple eyes that sprout shoots, such as a potato.
A tuberous root is a modified lateral root, enlarged to function as a storage organ. It is thus different in origin but similar in function and coarse appearance to a tuber. In root tubers there are no node and internodes, (eyes). Example is the sweet potato.

True bulbs and Corms
A bulb, strictly speaking, has enlarged scales where most of the nutrients are stored and a small basal plate, which is where the next future plants roots and shoots are. A corm is just the opposite: it has small scales and the nutrients are stored in the enlarged basal plate. In some cases a plant may be separated from the bulb and then the bulb will produce another plant. True bulbs develop miniature bulbs, known as bulblets, which when grown to full size are known as offsets. Offsets can be separated from the mother bulb and replanted.
More detailed differentiating between these storage organs becomes somewhat blurred and confusing. Even botanists may refer to any underground nutrient organ as a “bulb”, so from here on in discussing the aquarium application I will refer only to either rhizomes or bulbs.

Healthy rhizomes and bulbs
One common problem in the aquarium is rhizomes and bulbs rotting due to lack of oxygen. This is caused when it is buried in the substrate where there is heavy accumulation of decaying organic matter. You can avoid this by leaving the bulb or rhizome above the substrate or burying only enough to keep it rooted. Tiger lotus, (Nymphaea sp.) has a nice, small, perfectly round bulb. I simply leave it sitting on top of the gravel without burying any portion of it at all. Roots form and grow into the substrate easily and eventually the plant may detach from the bulb on it own and another plant will develop from the bulb.

Sometimes the rhizome or bulb may be so small you have to bury it. Since the smallest piece of rhizome may produce a plant, sometimes from mass production the plants are grown with very small rhizomes. You commonly see this with Anubias and Cryptocoryne species. Bulbs may also be quite small if the commercial grower is using bulblets instead of much older bulbs. If you have a large bulb plant such as Aponogeton or Crinum growing on a very small bulb, or a bulb with no roots yet formed, bury it, but gently pull the plant up 4 to 8 weeks later after the roots have formed to expose the bulb. Sometimes the rhizome, or multiple rhizomes of a big potted Cryptocoryne may be surrounded by a large root ball. This appears to protect the rhizomes as long as the roots remain healthy.

Nature designed rhizomes and bulbs as a nutrient storage to enable the plant to grow back every spring or season, not as the plants sole nutrient source through out the year. If you do not provide enough nutrients for the plant it will live only until it uses up the nutrients stored in the bulb or rhizome and then it will never grow back. This is particularly evident in Aponogetons, which often go dormant in the winter and will only grow back three months later if they were properly fed while growing.

Reproduction
Rhizomes may be divided. Each piece will produce new roots and shoot growth. When dividing a mature plant such as Anubias or Java fern, leave some existing roots and shoots on each piece. Make sure the cut is clean. I always use a razor blade. Some bulbs will produce smaller bulbs as I mentioned earlier. A bulb should not be otherwise divided. You can sometimes cut out rotting portions of a bulb, but pieces of a bulb will not grow. A bulb produces a single plant stalk at one time, while a rhizome and tuber may produce multiple plant stalks/shoots at the same time.

Aquascaping

To my knowledge, most if not all bulb plants in the aquarium are either quite large or fairly tall and are usually placed toward the rear of the aquarium. Aquarium plants with rhizomes can be relatively small as well as large or tall. Most rhizome plants in the aquarium may also be attached to wood or rock, or any object. You simply wrap a tie around the rhizome and the object snug enough to hold the plant erect. Java fern and Anubias nana is often used this way to create plant walls against the glass or the illusion of sloping hills. There is even a new cultivar miniature Anubias nana, which grows tight clusters of leaves no bigger than a thumbnail, (Anubias nana petite). A newer version of Java Fern, (Microsorum pteropus) is the “needle leaf” variety. It features extremely narrow leaves a half inch wide that grow fairly long. Microsorum rhizomes are very tough and woody and may easily be stuffed into nooks and crannies in wood or rock without damaging the plant. It also should never be buried in the gravel. In it’s natural habitat the roots serve only as anchors to attach to rocks in streams. It absorbs most of its nutrients from the water through its leaves.

Now that you have had a little lesson in botany, hopefully you now know not to bury your rhizomes and bulbs, and to keep them healthy and how to propagate them! You may find more information on botany terms in the glossary section of http://www.aquabotanic.com/

Please send me your questions, stories, experiences, and photos to
Robert@aquabotanic.com

2009-05-03T14:30:00.000-07:00

Aponogeton longiplumulosus

Planted Tank
Aponogeton
By Robert Paul Hudson

Q. I bought this package of bulbs for my ten gallon aquarium. How do I plant them and what to I need to do to take care of them?
Cecil Rosenthal
San Diego, CA

Most likely these bulbs are Aponogeton species or Nymphaea species, (commonly called dwarf water lily or Tiger lotus. These are large plants that in the long run will be too big for a ten gallon aquarium. Lets talk about Aponogetons.

The Aponogeton family consists of 44 species of which only a handful have been staples in the hobby for decades. All species of Aponogeton have a bulb shaped tuber or some sort of rhizome that produce very long leaves. While the color, texture, and appearance vary from specie to specie, the one commonality they all share is size. In the aquarium these plants make an impressive focal point that dominates the aquascape.

Almost all Aponogetons go thru rest and growth cycles. During the growth stage proteins, fats, carbohydrates and minerals are stored in the tuber. During the rest period, the leaves dies off while the tuber survives in order to sprout again at the next growth cycle. This is why it is important to feed the plants amply during the growth cycle so the plant is able to store enough nutrients for it to come back the next time around.

Aponogeton crispus comes from southern India and Sri Lanka. The leaves are 1.5 to 2” wide, up to two feet long, undulate, and either green or brown in color. With adequate light and feeding it grows quickly and easily. Although in its natural habitat the plant grows in soft, slightly acidic water, it can grow in medium-hard to hard water with C02 fertilization.

Also from Sri Lanka is A. rigidifolius. This is one of the few species that has a long thin rhizome instead of a tuber, and has no dormant cycle. The leaves are much darker in color than ‘crispus’ and it requires bright light and preferably acidic water with strong circulation.

From the African island of Madagascar, we have Aponogeton ulvaceus, madagascariensis, boivinianus, longiplumumulosus, and capuronii. Each has distinctive characteristics. Ulvaceus has wide undulating translucent yellow/green leaves. Madagascariensis is the skeleton leaf plant, and boivinianus is a dark green wide leaf with a hammered texture. Longiplumumulosus has a distinctive ruffle leaf while capuroni has a twisted, corkscrew like undulating leaf shape. Each of these varieties require moderate to bright light and thrive in slightly acidic water and tepid temperatures.

Aponogeton natans, a Sri Lanka specie, has floating leaves, It grows easily in the aquarium, but the floating leaves make it less desirable. It will hybridize with another variety called undulates resulting in a combination of floating and submersed leaves. Undulatus is the only Aponogeton to produce plantlets on 24” long petioles in place of flowers, much how Echinodorus, (sword plants) reproduce. These plantlets will then grow small bulbs that will separate eventually, or may be cut off. Other Aponogeton species reproduce by seed.

Here are some simple rules to follow to grow Aponogetons successfully in the aquarium:

1) Allow enough room for the leaves to extend out 20 to 24” in length
2) Provide good water circulation
3) Keep temperatures BELOW 80 F
4) Provide 2 to 4 watts of fluorescent light per gallon of water
5) Feed macro and minor nutrients regularly during growth period
6) When the leaves die back after several months of good growth, remove the bulb from the water and let dry for 24 hours. The tubers store moisture deep inside itself, allowing the tuber to be stored dry. If stored wet on the outside, it may develop mildew and rot. Place the tubers in a shallow dish or box and bury in peat moss or top soil. Do not add water. Cover and store in a cool, dry place for six to eight weeks. Return to the aquarium and let the bulb sit on the surface of the substrate without burying it. Place where it will get the most light for not less than twelve hours a day. C02 fertilization will help the bulb to sprout faster.

Under the right environmental conditions, Aponogetons are unproblematic to grow and are deeply satisfying. They often flower in the aquarium. A long vine like spike grows all the way up to a few inches above the water surface where it produces either a single or dual, (depending on the specie) bloom spike two or three inches long of tiny flowers. In large aquariums these plants create a spectacle unlike any other plant.

2009-05-03T14:06:00.000-07:00

How to use color in the aquarium garden

By Robert Paul Hudson

Different shades of red, orange and yellow add a distinctive beauty to an aquascape, but how it is used in the overall design plays an important role.

Ways of using color

Using reds creates contrast, depth, and focal points. A focal point is something that draws your eye and stands out. Usually only one or two focal points are used. Any more than that creates visual tension and chaos, with the eye being drawn all over the tank. This has long been a principal used in both Dutch and Japanese style aquascaping. Used strictly for highlighting an aquascape, bright colors are used very sparingly. When large amounts of bright colors are used it becomes a very strong, dominate part of the aquascape. If done properly this can be a breathtaking site. It really comes down to the same principals of landscape gardening. If you desire to have a Rose garden, you may have other plants around the rose bushes, border plants, bed plants, but nothing that draws the eye away from the roses or detracts from the visual impact of the dark red roses. No matter what other plants you use it will always be looked at as a “rose garden”. In the aquarium one could have a large group of dark or bright red plants, but then the entire aquascape is centered around those plants. There are several colorful aquatic plants that could be used in that way to be the “rose” of the aquarium. One such plant is Rotala macrandra, which I wrote about in an earlier column.

James Hoftiezer designed this aquascape a few years ago and it won first place in two planted aquarium aquascaping contests. The overall design very heavily uses dark reds and purple that casts a shadowy tone to the entire aquascape. There is still a sense of balance and harmony without being chaotic. It may appear a bit overpowering for some taste, but it is unique and striking.

Stem plants vs rosette plants

Stem plants have the most variety is leaf shape and color, and are used for the ability to shape and sculpt by pruning and re-planting. Sword plants, (Echinodorus) are used as stationary focal points, (changing only as the plant grows taller) that draw the eye not only for the color but the large size of the plant, and Cryptocorynes have dark earthy colors that when planted in groups or rows provide a dark contrast in specific key areas.

Placement of colorful plants

Focal points are set just left of center, or the “golden ratio”. This is defined as the point in the visual field where a ratio of 1:1.618 meet. To find this point do the following: measure the length of your tank and divide it by 2.618. Take the result and measure it from one side of your tank. Mark it. The remaining distance is 1.618. Where these two measurements meet is just left of center and where your focal point should be, (or reversed would be just right of center). To create “highlights” the red plants should be very sparsely planted just barely outlining groups of other plants. It is so subtle that the red plants help create the contrasting plants as a focal point instead of the red plants themselves. Another factor to consider for placement is lighting. Most plants retain their red/purple/orange coloring or enhance their color by being under direct, bright light. The plants should not be overshadowed by larger plants. Cryptocorynes that mostly have a brown to bronze color may be the only exception.

Here is a guide to some of the more popular plants used for various shades of red and orange:

Stem Plants
Rotala macrandra: dark red, large leaf, has special growing needs. Used in large groups to make a very bold visual impact

Rotala rotundifolia, from pink to orange, small leaves, easy to grow. Used for contrast, highlights, soft colors

Rotala magenta narrow leaf version of macrandra, dark red, moderately difficult

Rotala wallachii and
Rotala Vietnam both have needle, brush like leaves and a soft red color. The ‘vietnam’ variety is more brownish with red highlights.

Alternanthera reineckii long narrow leaves that grow upright revealing a fire engine red to purple/red underside. Easy to grow

Ammania, long narrow leaves on thick, tall stems ranging from dark red to light orange. Used for strong visual affect.

Eusteralis stellata, (Pogostemon stellatus), when in color it is a stunning dark red/purple, otherwise it is solid green. Leaves are whorl shaped on thick stems. Used for strong visual impact. Difficult to grow.

Nesaea sp ‘Red” a small leaf, low growing plant that is dark, beet red. Nice accent plant close to the substrate.

Cabomba furcata, thin whorl like leaves that get bright red at the leaf tips. Nice color without being to over powering. Fairly easy to grow with soft water. Distinctly different in color from common Cabomba species.

Ludwigia arcuata needle like leaves ranging from pink to dark red. Adds a nice delicate looking red touch to the aquascape. Great for subtle highlights and contrast.

Rosette plants, (leaves that grow from a crown)
Echinodorus, (sword plants)
Red Rubin, Ozelot, Rose, Indian Red, and many more hybrids and cultivars feature dark red with yellow veins or various red markings on broad or tapered leaves. These plants grow quite large for most aquariums, and generally are used as solitary focal points.

Nymphaea zenkeri
Known as “Tiger Lotus” This water lily has broad dark red or mottled red leaves that are hard to miss. At maturity it can have leaves as big as your hand. A great solitary focal point. Easy to grow

Cryptocorynes
The most common Cyptocoryne used in aquascaping is “wendtii “ which comes in brown/red and bronze colors. It can vary in shape and size depending on conditions, but has mostly been used from the middle to the front of the tank to provide a dark contrast between other groups of plants.

In planted aquascape designs, red plants are an important component, but how it is used really comes down to you the artist. Do not be afraid to experiment. For the most part red plants are no more difficult than any other plants if their needs are being met and the reward may take your breath away.

2009-05-03T13:50:00.001-07:00

The Planted Tank
Plants life cycle
By Robert Paul Hudson

I read your article in the April issue of Freshwater and Marine Aquarium. Several years ago I planted my 210 gallon aquarium with Vallisneria. I do not remember which varieties I planted. The grass rapidly grew beyond all my expectations and just about as quickly the blades turned brown and created a mess. I pulled out the plants before they could clog my filters even more. I do not know if this die back is part of the normal growing cycle for eelgrass or if they became diseased or if there was an issue with my husbandry. I am hoping you may be able to shed some light on this. I thank you in advance for any assistance you may be able to provide.
Sincerely,
Allan M. Puskar
Via email

It is not uncommon for plants to have a burst of growth for the first few months before the growth slows or stops and the plants decline rapidly because they are not receiving enough light or nutrients. Initially the plants in some cases may have a burst of growth due to nutrients that are stored inside the plant or tuber, but without further sources of nutrients that reserve is used up quickly. An aquarium that has been running for a few years has a build up in the substrate of sludge that is high in nitrogen and minerals which can sustain plants for a long period of time, but an aquarium less than a year old does not have that advantage.

Allan revealed to me that his aquarium was less than a year old, and the water was quite soft. Vallisneria are heavy root feeders and like hard water. They are able to derive C02 from hardening constituents of the carbonate hardness. Without C02 addition, and low light, and no ongoing source of nitrogen, the Vallisneria will not sustain itself.

Adding fertilizer tablets to the substrate that contain nitrogen will give the plants what they need, and supplemental C02 or a C02 substitute such as Flourish Excel will give the plants carbon even in soft water.

Aponogeton is an example of a bulb plant that can live off its reserve of nutrients for a short period of time. Often first time hobbyists buy the bulbs in packages that have not yet sprouted. In the aquarium the bulbs may sprout with no effort and grow a few inches or more before stopping or dieing off. Under proper conditions, Aponogetons will grow to a length of two feet or more with multiple leaves and flower stalks. If properly fertilized during its growth cycle, the plants will also grow back after their dormant period.

By maintaining optimum growing conditions, most plants will live indefinitely in the aquarium.

Subwassertang-what is it?

Some plants life cycle includes different growth forms at various stages. Terrestrial ferns have an interesting cycle that includes spores, gametophytes, and sporophytes. In simple terms a gametophyte is like the larval stage of an insect. It looks entirely different than the adult form. What makes this relevant to the aquarium hobby is that the gametophyte stage of one terrestrial fern, Lomariopsis lineata, has been found to be able to grow underwater and make a very attractive aquarium plant!

Apparently it was first introduced to the hobby in Germany and given the name Subwassertang which means freshwater seaweed. It grows attached to wood or rock in the same way as a moss or liverwort in tight clusters. It has no roots or stems, but roundish shaped leaves in groups. Moderate light or better and well oxygenated water will encourage the plant to grow and spread and higher C02 levels will increase the growth rate.

Gametophytes normally have both male and female organs that produce egg and sperm that unite to create the next growth cycle form, but for some unknown reason this Gametophyte that has been cultivated for the aquarium is missing the female sex organs, and as a result will never transform to the next growth stage and never become a fern. The oddest thing of all is that the fern is a tree climbing vine fern!

The plant is cultivated in Asian plant farms and became very popular in the Singapore and Taiwan markets. It has been exported to Europe and occasionally to the USA.

Subwassertang art

From an artistic standpoint, it has great potential, and has been added to the growing list of mosses and liverworts that are highly sought after by hobbyists. It is easy to grow and maintain. With a moderate growth rate it requires little maintenance and only needs to be occasionally thinned out. It is a low profile plant that creates the look of a “cushion”.

To attach the plant, spread a clump across a rock or wood and wrap nylon thread around it a few times. Plastic or metal mesh can also be used. Be careful not to over do it. Just enough to keep the plant in place.

Within a month you should have lush green Subwassertang pillows! If you have the opportunity to get this plant, it is definitely worth considering.

2009-05-03T13:41:00.000-07:00

Nearly indestructible
By Robert Paul Hudson

For us folks that have been around the hobby for a few years and are always looking for new and different plants, we often overlook those plants that have been in the hobby from the very beginning and have lasted this long for one reason: they grow with very little effort.

One such plant is Sagittaria species, which consists of a genus of about 20 species of aquatic plants whose members go by a variety of common names, including arrowhead, duck potato, iz-ze-kn, katniss, kuwai , swan potato, tule potato, and wapato (or wapatoo). Typically these plants grow in muddy, swampy bogs or shallow pond shorelines of North America and have been introduced in other countries around the world. There are various species in virtually all of north America and parts of the rest of the Americas. They have even been used as medicinal aids and food by native American and early American cultures. Most are grown by hobbyists as ornamental pond plants, but there are two common species that are aquarium favorites; subulata and platyphylla.

Sagittaria subulata

Commonly referred to as dwarf sagittaria or narrow leaf sag, this plant has two growth forms in the aquarium; one that is relatively short at 4 to 6 inches, and one that is relatively tall at 12 to 18 inches. Both variations are prolific growers and spread by ground level runners that produce plants. Typically the leaves range from a quarter to a half inch wide. Bright light and elevated C02 levels will produce wider and more robust leaves at an accelerated growth rate, while lower light and C02 levels produce more subdued growth. The plant is resilient enough to grow equally well in either low tech or high tech aquariums. Dense thickets of this grass like plant develop, but it does not exactly form into an evenly distributed “lawn”. Plants may be cut off from runners and replanted closer together, and the leaves may be cut shorter without damaging the plant.

Sagittaria platyphylla

Known to aquarium hobbyists as Giant Sag, Chilensis, or Wide Leaf Sag, and to pond hobbyists as Delta Arrowhead. In shallow water it grows as a marginal marsh plant with wide arrow shaped leaves and clusters of white flowers. Underwater the leaves are long strap like and an inch to an inch and a half wide. It is one of the most authentic and natural looking plants for an underwater aquascape. Found through out the USA in AL , AR , FL, GA , KS , KY , LA , MS , MO , NC , OH , OK , SC , TN , TX , and VA. This plant grows somewhat slower than subulata.

Growing conditions

These two species seem adaptable to a wide range of water parameters. Being native to North America, they are highly suitable for unheated aquariums such as those for gold fish and American native fish, but grow just as easily under higher temperatures. High light and C02 levels will produce the most robust looking plants, but is not a requirement for satisfactory results. Water hardness is not a major factor either.

Aquascaping with Sagittaria

I like to use dwarf Sagittaria to create pockets or dense groups of grass rather than to attempt a lawn or field of grass. The plant is just too unruly to create a nicely manicured looking lawn. Having patches of grass next to wood and rock look very natural to me. I take my dog Buster boy on walks to this open and abandoned field. The grass tends to naturally grow in tall clumps with smaller plants in between. In some areas the clumps are close together and in other areas much wider apart. This scene of nature I think would be a natural depiction in the aquarium as well.

Wide leaf Sagittaria I use toward the back of the aquarium as solitary focal points or to create tall thickets. One could also use this plant to create a back wall of tall plants or an underwater forest with no particular shape or design. Picture a quiet lake cove laden with reeds, rushes, and swaying grass. Imagine what that must look like underwater, a world with many hiding places, dark shadows, and piercing light from above.

Maintenance

The most time consuming aspect of keeping Sagittaria, particularly under bright light, is thinning out plants to prevent overgrowth. Yellowing leaves is a sign of insufficient iron or nitrogen, (or both). A fertilizer tablet containing nitrogen pushed into the gravel is very effective particularly in aquariums less than two years old that have not yet matured. Iron can also be added either to the water or the substrate along with other trace minerals. These grass plants may be cut or pruned to be kept at a desired height, but the cut edges may always be in view and not look natural. When I had dwarf sag growing in large areas of my 100 gallon aquarium, I reached in with scissors to cut the leaves that had grown over eight inches tall in the very front of the aquarium. I wanted to keep them much shorter in front and allow them to be taller toward the back on a gradient scale. It was a lot of work and I was not completely happy with the result. That is when I started keeping them in clumps instead of a ground cover.

Low cost/big return

Another reason for keeping these plants is their low cost. They are one of the least expensive plants available. Considering how easy they are to maintain, Sagittaria is the best value for the aquarium hobbyist.

2008-12-04T16:47:00.001-08:00

Lysimachia, photo by the author

The Planted Tank

Flowers in the Aquarium

By Robert Paul Hudson

All plants flower as part of reproduction, and aquarium plants are no different. Flowers are formed either when the plant breaks the water surface or a flower stalk grows from the crown of the plant all the way to the water surface.

Plants usually do not flower under water, and if they do it is by accident not by design. Anubias species in the natural world grow in very shallow water with leaves partially or fully exposed. In the aquarium we keep these plants in water too deep for it to reach the water surface and the flower stalk is very short, so sometimes the flower will open for a brief time underwater.

Sword plants, (Echinodorus) lilies, (Nymphaea), Crinums and Aponogetons each send out a long vine like stalk that may reach over two feet to hit the water surface and bloom. Aponogetons have a rather diminutive flower spike consisting of a tiny cluster of flowers at the tip. Echinodorus have small white flowers in multiple clusters all along the stalk as it lies across the water surface. Nymphaea and Crinums have large spectacular flowers. Nymphaea is cultivated for it’s blooms in ponds and has a whole variety of colors and shapes.

Many stem plants have multiple blooms from the sides of the stems at the leaf elbows above water. Cabomba furcata has deep blue flowers while Lysimachia has bright yellow flowers.

Sidebar
Lysimachia is an interesting plant because it grows in and above water, and as a strictly terrestrial plant. It is used as a border-bed plant in gardens, a “cutting” plant in vases, an edge plant in ponds, and for aquascaping the aquarium.

Inducing the bloom

The best way to encourage flowering varies from plant to plant. Light duration is often the key as well as temperature. Some plants in their natural environment flower only in the summer or only in the winter, and some during the entire year. Research would have to be done on each plant to determine if flowers during a short day or a long day. In general you should provide plenty of light and nutrients and C 02. Stem plants such as Bacopa, Ludwigia or Heteranthera should be allowed to grow above the water surface and plants that produce long flower stalks should be well fed and left alone to mature without being constantly moved.

Open top aquariums provide a way of viewing flowering plants. Lights should be suspended about six inches above the tank, or three inches above the tops of any plants above water to prevent the leaves or flowers from being singed. These plants should be placed along the rear and side edges so as to not block light to the other plants below.

I have become interested in creating a planted aquarium and am learning slowly through trial and error. I presently have two tanks, a ten and twenty gallon. In the twenty gallon I have a java fern, which is doing well or at least holding its own, Red Arrowhead which is either disintegrating or being eaten rapidly by the fish, and hedge which is doing well but has a black coating on many if not all of its leaves. the coating can be rubbed off. What do you suspect this might be? If it is an algae what is the best way to combat it? Is there a fish or snail that will eat it? Enough of it to clean up the plants? My next project is a 40 gallon with a better substrate and cable heat. But I need to have a bit of success before I kick that one into gear. Can you help me through this problem with the black on the leaves?

Thank you
Jeff Tobin
Via the internet

Arrowhead and Hedge plants are not true aquatic plants and should be grown in a terrarium only. Many aquarium/pet stores sell both types of plants together and do not understand the difference between them. Plants that are better able to grow under water will be less likely to have algae problems if you are providing enough light and other conditions to keep the plants healthy. Java fern, Anubias, and some Cryptocoryne species are good beginner plants because they are slow growing and do not require intensive light and are very durable. I would start with those plants and then keep your water as clean and fresh as possible doing weekly water changes to keep algae at a minimum and then do some research on the internet about different approaches to keeping a more sophisticated plant tank and what the lighting requirements are. Start simple and then explore how much further you are willing to go. Light, C02, and nutrients are much more important than substrate heaters. There are various algae eating fish and shrimp that will help, but first you need to have the appropriate plants and lighting.

The internet is a great resource for this kind of information. FAMA’s own online database, my WEB site, (www.aquabotanic.com) and online discussion forums, (such as www.aquaticplantcentral.com) provide a wealth of information which will make your hobby much more enjoyable and successful.

Little star

2008-12-04T15:56:00.000-08:00

The Planted Tank
By Robert Paul Hudson

Star light star bright

“I got this strange looking plant from my club auction. The leaves are wavy edged and the whole plant is shaped like a star and as big around as a quarter. The plant is labeled as ‘Downoi‘. I can not find this plant in any of my books. Is this a true aquatic plant, and do you have any information about it?”

this is Pogostemon helferi emersed, above is the same plant grown underwater

Making of a star

The plant you are referring to is Pogostemon helferi, and was discovered in Thailand where it was given the name “dao noi” which means “little star”. Somehow the Thai name has been represented by the word downoi to look like an English word instead of translating the meaning of the word.

P. helferi is a plant that goes thru a drastic transformation, no less remarkable than a caterpillar morphing to a butterfly. In shallow, muddy wetlands, it grows long stems with tiny almond shaped leaves. When submersed underwater, each small leaf turns into a four or five point star. Roots form at the base. Under intense light in the aquarium, each star grows larger but retains its shape. Under lower light levels a stem forms in the center of the star and grows toward the water surface and above, reverting back to its prior form.

Both growth forms have recently become commercially available. The emergent growth form is usually potted. Either lay the stems horizontal across the substrate or plant the stems upright. It will take about thirty days or less depending on the light intensity for the metamorphosis to begin. Once the stars have formed, cut each off the stems and plant in rows or groups in the substrate. Make sure they are positioned in an open area that is not over shadowed by other plants.

The submersed growth form may be purchased either potted or bare root, and is usually branched with multiple stars, or growing partially upright and branched. Each star may be removed and planted. Sometimes you may find only one or two stars in a pot that are somewhat grown out.

It appears to do just as well in hard water as soft water, and a pH of 6.0 to 7.5. Other than light, the only other important issue is having a fertile substrate. I would add a fertilizer tablet in the gravel under each plant when first planting. Supplemental C02 will help to speed up growth, but only if the light is adequate.

Other examples

There are other plants that also go thru a radical change when growing underwater. Proserpinaca palustris, known as mermaid weed starts as ovate leaves with saw tooth edges and underwater turns into long, finely denticulated, needle-like leaves. The underwater leaves turn various shades of red, copper, and orange under bright light. It grows quite slowly and needs as much light as you can give it, but it offers an unusual look and somewhat of a challenge. It will transform more quickly if it is in shallow water.

Hygrophila balsimica is another example. Large solid leaves that contain a toxin become deeply grooved almost feathery looking and completely harmless loosing all the toxin.

Why the change

Most aquatic plants can grow both above water and below water. What you may not know is many aquarium plants are grown purposely with only their roots in water by commercial growers to attain quicker and larger growth. When grown this way the plants are less likely to have algae and parasites. Although these plants are true aquatic, they require some time to adapt to growing underwater, and may change in appearance in the process.

Plants will adapt fairly quickly, but may change their leaf structure: shape and size, dramatically. Aquatic plants have a very highly developed system of air cavities or canals. It runs through the entire plant, from the leaves to the outermost tips, and enables the plant to maintain buoyancy in the water. Because the water supports the plants, their stems and leaves have far less supporting tissue or fibers than those of terrestrial plants, so when growing out of the water, or even floating, the leaves and stems become much thicker or wider. When under water, the new growth from these thick stems will be much thinner.

Not all plants that grow with their roots in water are able to make the transition to being fully submersed. These plants are often called “bog plants” or “marginal plants”, and are more suitable for ponds or paludariums.

In nature

In their natural habitat, of the plants we use in our aquarium the greater majority grow emersed, but those submersed plants found in nature do play an important role in the eco system.

The Role of Submersed Aquatic Plants in Waterbodies
· Provides habitat for fish.
· Provides food and habitat for wildlife populations (fish, waterfowl, invertebrates).
· Affects nutrient cycles and other chemical cycles in complex ways.
· Can increase water clarity.
· Stabilizes shorelines and sediments.
· Can increase or decrease dissolved oxygen concentrations, depending on its abundance, the availability of light, and time of day.

The availability of light, water clarity, water depth, and sediment stability affect where submersed plants will grow.

Emersed plants are plants that grow out of the water (or during low-water times, in exposed sediments). They are rooted to the bottom, but their stems, leaves and flowers are above the water. They too provide environmental roles:

Provide habitat for fish.
Provide food (seeds and leaves) and habitat for wildlife populations such as ducks.
Reduce shoreline erosion.

Make an educated choice

Each growth form has its advantages when purchased by the consumer. Emergent growth plants ship better, and are more hardy. Submersed growth plants may be more colorful, but are also more sensitive and delicate. In some cases submersed plants may be more expensive. Some hobbyists may not be patient enough to wait for the plants to adapt to growing underwater and the desire for instant gratification steers them to search for submersed plants. This is why trading between hobbyists has become popular. If you provide optimal conditions for plant growth either growth form will flourish. Observing this change first hand is an education on how life in our world is forever resilient and adaptive.

Two new plants

2008-08-19T19:45:00.000-07:00

Planted Tank

Two new plants for the American hobbyist

by Robert Paul Hudson

“ I saw photos on the internet of this very low growing, pillow, carpet plant. Do you know what it is? I have never seen such a plant at my favorite aquarium store, and when I asked them about it I was told there was no such plant! Is it a hard plant to grow, and where can I get it?”
Joseph Marino
New York, NY

Because the internet is worldwide and reflects trends in other countries, what you see on the net may be years ahead of what is happening in the hobby here in America. New plant species have been slow to be introduced to the American market, and the American retailer is often slow to pick up on it as well. There is some light in the tunnel.

Florida Aquatic Nurseries is the largest producer of aquarium and pond plants in the U.S.A., and has recently added two new plants to their offering that are wonderful additions for the hobbyist and now available from FAN distributors/dealers.

Anyone who has drooled over photographs in books and magazines, or the internet, understands how important the foreground is in an aquascape. Hemianthus callitrichoides and Lilaeopsis mauritius each have attractive features that give new options for the aspiring aquascaper.

What’s HC?

Hemianthus callitrichoides, known as “dwarf baby tears” or simply “HC” has such a distinctive look, it is truly unmistakable. It is the smallest known aquatic stem plant that hugs the substrate and contours with it: blanketing the substrate but still showing every crack, crevice and hill. The tiny round leaves grow so dense that it resembles a short pile carpet more than a cluster of stems and leaves. This plant has become immensely popular among hobbyists on the internet, and created an underground market and demand until it was legally imported here. Now the plant is available on a mass scale to the American hobbyist.

HC was originally discovered in Cuba growing among rocks in a river that is shallow in the dry season and a meter deep in the rainy season. It has never been found anywhere else in the world.

The plant is not particularly light demanding, but the brighter the light the more compact the growth is. It is relatively new to the hobby. It has been available in Europe and Asia for a few years and was first seen by American hobbyists on the internet in 2004 when Oliver Knott of Germany showed the world his aquascape by winning the Aqua Botanic Aquascaping contest and the Aquatic Gardeners Association Aquascaping Showcase. Even now very little has been written or documented about this plant. Now that it is readily available from Florida, many people will have the opportunity to experiment with it.

HC grows best in open areas where it is not overshadowed by other plants. It also needs to be thinned out occasionally to prevent layers growing on top of each other. If this is allowed to happen, eventually the lower levels will die off. A common ailment is iron deficiency, which is recognized by yellow leaves.
Narrow leaf Micro sword

Lilaeopsis mauritius, (narrow leaf Micro Sword) is a short grass like plant that grows into a thick sod, grassy lawn. Other more common species, such as Lilaeopsis brasiliensis, (known as Micro Sword), have been used in the hobby for decades. What makes Lilaeopsis mauritius unique are two important characteristics. First, the leaf is more narrow, almost hair like, and second the plant grows much faster and easier than the other related species without a dependence on intensive light.

It was discovered in the island country of Mauritius, which is off of southern Africa in the Indian Ocean, back in 1992. This country has a fascinating history about how its culture has evolved from African, Muslim, French, and Dutch societies.

Lilaeopsis has always been attractive to hobbyists because of all the grass like plants, it grows the thickest and tightest lawn without long runners or big gaps between plants, but it has always frustrated hobbyists by growing painstakingly slow even under very bright light. This new variety has all the “pros” without the “cons”, making it much easier to achieve the desired “lawn”.
Family
Apiaceae
Region
Africa
Country of origin
Mauritius
Height
5-10 cm
Light requirements
medium-very high
Temperature
15-28 °C
Hardness tolerance
very soft-very hard
pH tolerance
5,5-8

To seed your lawn, take the contents of each pot and divide it into five or six small bunches, (after removing the rock wool from the roots), and plant each in the substrate deep enough to only secure the plant, about an inch or two apart. Within a couple months all the gaps should be filled in.

High tech yields better results

I wouldn’t recommend either of thee plants in a typical low- tech plant tank, although I am sure many people will experiment. Both plants may grow under more subdued light, but growth is much more compact and vibrant with higher levels of light and C02.

Create the demand

The success of these two plants in the U.S. market will depend greatly on hobbyists, because frankly most retailers are unaware of current trends in the plant hobby. To see these plants in your local store you may have to request them to be ordered for you. Things are changing though. Some stores are beginning to see the profit potential in catering to the freshwater- planted tank hobbyist by providing a selection of products, and even educating their staff on this hobby niche. Some retailers, particularly those who are part of the computer generation, are embracing the internet as a tool to keep current on market trends and what hobbyists want and need. In future columns I will introduce you to some of these innovative retailers.
For more information about these plants and to see more aquascapes featuring these plants, visit the library and gallery sections of www.aquabotanic.com

Please send comments, photos, (300 dpi), and questions to Robert@aquabotanic.com
Appeared in October 07 FAMA magazine

CO2 delivery

2008-08-02T12:35:00.000-07:00

Planted Tank
C02 Delivery Methods: pressurized gas & fermentation
By Robert Paul Hudson

Previously I have discussed how plants use C02 in photosynthesis and how it increases growth. I have discussed the pros and cons of using C02 injection in a high tech set up and using a low tech set up without C02 injection. This month we are looking at the various types of hardware and methods of using pressurized C02 and fermentation systems.

C02 regulator
With pressurized gas the equipment used is pretty straight forward. A C02 cylinder stores the gas. A regulator is attached to the cylinder and controls the pressure and dispenses the gas into the aquarium. There is usually two gauges on the regulator: one that indicates the output pressure and the other the cylinder pressure. The regulator may adjust to the correct working pressure automatically, or have a manual adjustment knob to set to the correct pressure. A needle valve on the regulator is a flow control used to control how much gas goes thru the line into the aquarium. The quality of the needle valve will determine how fine a control there is and how stable it is: how well it holds without there being drifting pressure. A “drift” is when there is a change in pressure that will either increase or decrease the amount of gas going thru the line requiring you to have to re adjust the needle valve setting.

A needle valve is the most important component of the regulator. If you attempt to use a regulator without a needle valve, you could be prone to “end of tank dump syndrome”. When the C02 tank is near empty, pressure can build up that will cause the entire remaining contents of the cylinder to empty into your aquarium at once. This would most likely kill any fish and animals. Any needle valve, even a poor quality one, will prevent this from happening. Any regulator that is specifically made and marketed for the aquarium most likely already includes a needle valve built into it. Regulators that come from outside the aquaria industry (for example: for beer taps, restaurant use, industrial use) may not have a needle valve. You can attach a needle valve yourself to these types of regulators.

Optional components
There are other components of a C02 system that may be either a part of the regulator or attached to it in some way.

Solenoid/magnetic valve
A solenoid valve is an electronic shut off valve. It may be attached directly to the regulator or attached inline thru the C02 tubing, and is used in one of two way: plugged into a timer to go on and off with the lights, or plugged into a pH controller. A solenoid works by electrical power. When it is plugged into an electrical outlet and receiving power, the valve is open allowing the gas to flow. When it is not receiving power the valve is closed blocking the flow of gas.
Plants only use C02 when the lights are on, so by shutting the C02 off with the lights you conserve gas and prevent sharp drops in pH at night. Many hobbyists however do not use a solenoid and simply allow the C02 to run full board 24 hours a day. The pH swing is gradual enough so that it does no harm to the fish and animals.

PH controller
When a solenoid is connected to a pH controller, instead of shutting off the C02 with the lights, the controller shuts the solenoid off when enough C02 is added to reach the target pH, and turns it on again when the pH starts to rise, keeping the C02 level fairly constant 24/7. A probe reads the pH of the water constantly. This is the ultimate automation for a C02 system.

Bubble-counter
Some aquarium C02 regulators include a bubble counter, but there are also bubble counters that may be attached inline via the tubing and are usually affixed to the outside of the aquarium or cabinet. The purpose of the bubble counter is to simply give a visual “at a glance” check of the flow of gas going thru the line into the aquarium. It allows you to have a controlled flow rate of X number of bubbles per second or per minute. It also enables you to see if there is any change or “drift” in the flow so you can adjust the needle valve setting accordingly.

Dispersing the gas into the aquarium
The next important part of a C02 system to consider is the device that disperses the gas into the aquarium water. There are various devices and methods to choose from. These devices come down to two basic types: diffusers and reactors.

A diffuser is a device that simply bubbles the gas into the water, or somehow holds or traps a C02 bubble long enough for it to be in contact with water, (passive diffuser). A reactor is a device that mixes gas with water inside a chamber, which is then pumped into the aquarium. Reactors may be either internal to the aquarium or external. An external reactor may be either attached to a pump or to the outflow of a canister filter.

For a long time it was thought that the reactor was the most efficient way of dispersing C02 because none of the gas was wasted, however a more recent school of thought has surfaced that proclaims if micro C02 bubbles are somehow sprayed across the aquarium coming into direct contact with the plant leaves, that this is somehow more beneficial to the plants. I am not sure how much validity that holds, but regardless there are other pros and cons to using a diffuser. When using a ceramic disk diffuser that acts just as an air stone, the pores of the disk have to be micro size in order to make micro size bubbles. If the bubbles are too big they simply dissipate before being absorbed into the water. Because the pores are so small they can be easily clogged and require frequent cleaning. Often they become permanently clogged. Diffusers are more effective in aquariums smaller than 55 gallon, and in much larger aquariums one diffuser at each end of the aquarium would be required. A reactor on the other hand works very well in large or small aquariums. Diffusers are much smaller and less obtrusive than internal reactors, and particularly for nano aquariums are the better choice for that reason. Diffusers are less expensive but may need to be replaced more often than a regulator, which last for as0 long as its pump does.

Summary
Necessary components:
C02 Cylinder, Regulator with needle valve, dispersement device, tubing
Optional components:
Solenoid to be used with either a timer or pH controller, bubble counter and check valve.
Dispersing device: diffuser or reactor

Frequently Asked Questions about pressurized gas C02 systems
What is the best bubble rate to start off with?
Do not rely on the bubble rate to determine how to adjust the flow rate. Instead have a target pH to reach. The more C02 you add to the water, the lower the pH drops. Only by measuring the pH both before and after adding C02 can you determine how much C02 is in your water. There are pH/KH charts on the internet, such as the one located at http://www.aquabotanic.com/aquamenu.htm which will give you a target to reach. Start at 1 bubble per second or every two seconds and then measure your pH. Slowly, over the course of a couple days increase the bubble rate until the pH reaches its target.

Can the C02 bottle be laid on its side?
No. It must stand upright. C02 is actually a liquid inside the canister and will spill out and not operate properly if it is not standing up

Where do I get a C02 canister, what size should I get and how long do they last?
Some aquarium C02 systems are sold with a canister that is usually quite small: either 2.5 or 5 pounds. A five pound canister will last about three months. The problem is it may be difficult to find a place willing to fill the canister. It is much easier to go to a local welding supply shop and purchase a canister already filled. They may have a five pound canister, but will defiantly have the larger ten and 20 pound cylinders, which lasts one year and two years respectfully.

Fermentation C02 systems
For many years there have been recipes on the internet for making a homemade C02 system that involves yeast and sugar in a 2 liter soda bottle. As it ferments C02 gas is produced and travels through tubing that was inserted and sealed through a drilled hole in the bottle cap, to the inside of the aquarium where it is bubbled through an airstone. Depending on the amount of yeast used it can last anywhere from two to four weeks. You then need to start over with a completely new solution mix. It is easy in one sense, and less intimidating than pressurized gas for beginners, but requires making a new batch at least once a month and it can be messy. The main draw back of fermentation systems is you have no real control over th amount of C02 going into the aquarium. Whatever it produces is what you get, and after the first day it gradually gives off less and less gas until it is done. If you do not want to take the time to drill a hole in a bottle cap, make sure it is sealed right, make sure you have mixed the right amount of yeast, sugar, and water, there is a kit sold that has everything pre measured, ready to go, and includes a nice little canister to use for the generator instead of a 2 liter soda bottle. Red Sea makes such a kit called the Bio System. The directions are clear, to the point, and easy to understand. It takes less than five minutes to hook up and be ready to go. It includes a small pump that blows the gas into a cloud of tiny bubbles in the aquarium, which according to some people as I mentioned earlier is the preferred dispersing method. The pump is small enough so it takes up very little room and may be easily tucked away out of plain view. This is particularly attractive for very small aquariums. Hagen also has a similar product.

I hope that this has taken some of the mystery and fear of C02 systems away for those contemplating making the move. Once you take the leap and understand what is involved, it becomes much easier to deal with. The reward is a more vibrant and healthy looking underwater garden.

Please send questions, comments, and 300dpi photos to Robert@aquabotanic.com
Please also visit me at the Plant Particulars Forum on FAMAs WEB site.

The Garden Patch

2008-07-26T11:29:00.000-07:00

The Planted Tank FAMA March 07
The Garden Patch

by Robert Paul Hudson

When I look back on the years I have spent learning and appreciating aquarium gardening, I am reminded of where my aspiration came from: gardening with flowers and vegetables during my youth under the tutelage of my Father. Under his guidance I learned to appreciate the work involved in nurturing a living thing from it’s earliest beginning to its fullest potential and grandiose end. Planting a seed in the spring and observing the last bloom or harvest of the fall is seeing first hand the cycle of life. I dedicate this column to my Father, Richard Hudson.

The first few years I was in the hobby, I wanted to grow every aquarium plant I saw and read about. Having only one aquarium this became a problem! It meant every few months I would re arrange the tank and try new plants. Eventually I began to grow from one aquarium to another, and I experimented with a more artistic approach. I went thru much the same phases in my approach to outdoor gardening as a child, making attempts to be creative in how I arranged flowerbeds, but in the end all I really wanted to do was grow plants. Having the desire to try different things with plants, whether it be to re-create a biotope, a Dutch garden, a natural scene, or just cramming as many plants as I could together, never for a moment diminished my adoration for aquarium gardening.

It is nice to know I am in good company! Walter Wu has been an avid hobbyist and breeder of discus for many years, but has also been a collector of Echinodorus plants. (Sword plants) for the last eleven years. “Since I also keep discus, most varieties of Echinodorus are a good match with discus. These plants can take the warmer waters, are usually easy to keep, and the discus won't bother the plants either. Also, there's a similarity in both discus and swords plants in that there seems to be a lot of new colorhybrids coming out regularly.” The Red Flame and Veronica hybrids are his current favorite, although he admits if more of the German hybrids were available in the USA it would be a tough choice. He currently has ten species, but has had a total of 19 different Echinodorus species. “About 11 years ago I started with the generic "Amazon"sword (Echinodorus bleheri). The hybrids weren't as easily available then as they are now” he chuckled. Walter is fortunate to be a member of the Raleigh Aquarium Society, http://www.raleighaquariumsociety.org/ , the Carolina Aquatic Plant Enthusiasts Club, http://www.ncaquaticplants.org/, and the Aquatic Gardeners Association where he can acquire and trade plants with other hobbyists.

Jennifer Ford takes aquarium gardening to a whole new level. She collects currently around 70 different species of plants from Anubias and Cryptocorynes such as moehlmanni to stem plants and floaters such as Najas guadalupensis. “At this point I tend to buy any species I don't already have. I especially like Cryptocorynes as I only have about 6 different species and I'd love to find more. I'm more interested in species that are tolerant of a wide range of water. The water in Indiana is liquid ROCK, but I have found that with enough CO2 you can convince softer water species to grow. I will try anything once.” She is the chairperson for the Circle City Aquarium Club's Horticulture Awards Program where people get points for growing new species. Keeping plants like any aspect of the aquaria hobby is matter of progression: Trials and tribulations. Jennifer acknowledges that the first plant that really thrived for her was Rotala rotundifolia. “I think this is just such a lovely stem, and I still keep it. It has all the desirable characteristics I look for in a stem plant: The leaves will get a beautiful pink cast to them near the surface with high light, and it grows very quickly. It responds extremely well to trimming and can be easily shaped. I can tweek my water parameters and get it to change how it looks. It is very fun plant to grow and still has appeal after all these years.”

ROTALA ROTUNDIFOLIA
Hardiness: Easy

Light Needs: Medium\

Plant Structure: Stem

Family: Lythraceae

Genus: Rotala

Region: Asia

Location: Southeast Asia

Size: Individual stem width: 1.5-2cm (0.75-1in)

Growth Rate: Fast

Care: Although this plant will grow under moderate light, more intensive light will promote darker shades of red in this plant. It makes a strong visual impact planted in tight groups in the middle or rear of the aquarium and the stems will branch profusely when cut. Nutrients also play a role in this plant’s coloration. High phosphate and iron levels along with low nitrate levels will help induce more coloring.

Through experience and mistakes one learns what they like and do not like and what works for them and doesn’t work. The key is not to become discouraged when you hit bumps in the road. You learn how to deal with algae, fertilization, C02 and other issues as you go along. Jennifer knows she has hard water and certain plants such as Rotala wallachi struggle for her under those conditions. She has also come to the conclusion she does not like fast growing plants. “I have discarded several species that just became too prolific and invasive.”

After nine years in the hobby she now enjoys nurturing the enthusiasm others have in the hobby. “It is addicting! I get a lot of enjoyment out of my tanks too, but the real joy comes in sharing it with others,” she exclaims. Besides her involvement with the Circle City Aquarium Club, ccac@circlecityaqclub.org, she is also a member of the Aquatic Gardeners Association and an active participant of the internet forum The Planted Tank, http://www.plantedtank.net/ , where she eagerly answers questions and gets involved in discussions.

Being a “collector” of no specific plant genus gives you the opportunity to experience many different and unusual plants. It can be a starting point to discover where other interests may lie. On the other hand, collecting a specific genus such as Echinodorus, Cryptocoryne, Anubias, or Rotala will sharpen and deepen your skills making you an expert eventually on that particular genus.

There is also the enticement of collecting plants that are deemed extremely rare and challenging to grow. These plants are typically only available thru very specialized importers or from fellow hobbyists. Singapore and other parts of Asia have many plants available to hobbyists there, which are not traditionally available in the USA. Many of these species are very delicate and require very soft and acidic water and other specific conditions that make the plant challenging to the hobbyist. Another frustration to American collectors is the lack of German hybrid sword plants. There are somewhere between one and two dozen cultivar hybrid Echinodorus varieties that have never been sold in the United States, and most likely never will unless hobbyists create more of a demand for them.

That is what is so rewarding about this hobby. If you have a true love for plants, you can never become board. There is always another level to reach to, another road to embark on, and something new to try.

2008-07-20T13:58:00.000-07:00

The Planted Tank

Low tech planted tank the Walstad way
By Robert Paul Hudson

While much attention is brought to methods in aquatic gardening that involve high tech devices such as C02 systems and intensive lighting because ethey produce rapid growth in plants, there is another methodology often referred to as “low tech”. This approach to planted aquariums has often focused around the book Ecology of the Planted Aquarium by Diana Walstad. I had an opportunity to speak to Ms. Walstad.

Ms. Walstad received a B.S. in Microbiology from the University of Kentucky (Lexington) in 1968, and says she was born into a family that always had aquariums and ponds. Other than a brief stint in the Peace Corps, she has worked as a research technician all her life. “I worked in several medically related fields for the University of North Carolina (Chapel Hill) until 2001. Currently, I am working for the federal government as a cell biologist in a much more esoteric field- intracellular signaling.”

For someone who has not read your book, please briefly describe what the main points and objectives are.

The overall goal of this book is to get aquarium hobbyists to better appreciate plants. Plants aren’t vital for fish survival, but they can still play an important role in the aquarium. For example, plants keep algae in check, take up toxic ammonia, recycle fish food wastes, and oxygenate the substrate. Plants reduce the need for frequent water changes and gravel cleaning while still keeping the fish healthy.

The book also explains how plants affect the aquarium ecosystem and what factors affect the plants. For this I use scientific information that few hobbyists have ever seen. Then I describe my own aquariums and “my method”. However, I’m much more interested in providing information that hobbyists can use to set up their tanks the way they want. To this end, many hobbyists use the book’s information to better maintain their High Tech planted tanks.

I understand Ecology of the Planted Aquarium was the culmination of many years of work. Could you describe the process, what first inspired you and what your original goal was for the project?

Believe me, there was no planned project to write a book. The process really started in 1988 when I decided, after a long dry spell without tanks, to once again set up an aquarium. This time I was determined to have a planted tank. All past attempts had failed, so this time I decided to try something different- use soil in the tank. Ironically, I was inspired by a 1988 FAMA article (“Magic Touch or Common Sense?”), which was an interview with the plant enthusiast Dorothy Reimer. She described using potting soil to get spectacular plant growth.

When I too used potting soil and got spectacular plant growth, I was converted. I also noticed that my fish were doing very well in these tanks with minimal tank maintenance.
I decided to try writing narrowly focused articles based on scientific information. Thus, I wrote many articles for FAMA and TAG (The Aquatic Gardeners Association) on the preference of aquatic plants for ammonia (not nitrates), allelopathy, submerged soil chemistry, fish food as a source of plant nutrients, etc. The positive response from readers kept me going. Eventually, these articles would become chapters (or sub-chapters) of the book. At some point, I wondered if I could mesh all the magazine articles I’d written on so many seemingly unrelated topics (allelopathy, ammonia preference by plants, metal toxicity, etc) into a book. I decided that it could be done, and more importantly, that it was worth doing.

Did it evolve as you envisioned or were there any surprises?

There were many surprises. Every scientific paper might have a new surprise. It was exhilarating. There were days when I couldn’t wait to get to the libraries.
The little experiments I did also provided some surprises, like finding less plant growth in potting soil with added fertilizers than without added fertilizers. It’s empowering to do experiments to test out a theory. When I plan an experiment, I am often spurred on by the realization that I might discover something that no one else in the entire world knows.
The big surprise, not as much fun, was my experience with book publishers. It seems my book wasn’t academic enough for university libraries but it was “too scientific” for hobbyists. I spent a couple of frustrating years trying to find a publisher. If I had finally contracted with the university publisher that was interested, the book would have been severely condensed, cost $70, and would be purchased by only a few academic libraries. Certainly, no interviews for FAMA! I ended up publishing it myself, so that it came out exactly the way I wanted it.

The hobby has changed in many ways since you first began your research. Do you think the hobbyist today is attracted to the principles of your book for the same reason you originally intended?

Yes. I think hobbyists are attracted to the concepts in the book for the same reason that I was. These concepts also have real world applications. For example, we’ve all read about environmental efforts to use wetlands to clean up waterways. In my book, I advocate using floating/emergent plants in aquariums to control algae. Both things are based on the “aerial advantage”- that all floating/emergent plants (i.e., wetland plants) can use air CO2 that algae doesn’t have access to, are prodigiously fast-growers, and can quickly drain nutrients from the water.

Your methodology is often described as a low-tech approach. I do not see it in that simple of terms. I see it as attractive for the challenge of applying the scientific principles and seeing the effort come to fruition, rather than simply an approach to avoid the cost of high tech equipment. Your most avid followers seem to have a passion that goes far beyond just saving pennies. Is that an accurate observation that you feel compliments the intent of your work?

Yes. I think you’re right. I’m delighted that people see my book as more than just saving pennies. Aquariums are truly fascinating. They have so much to teach us.

Diana feels her work on the subject is complete other than small future updates to the book. She moderates a discussion forum centered around her book at Aquatic Plant Central, (www.aquaticplantcentral.com), where you can meet followers of her methodology and ask Ms. Walstad questions.

Betty Harris of Norman, Oklahoma found the book two years ago and says “It is chock full of scientific information on the ecology of planted tanks.” She feels the book has made a tremendous difference. “ It's made keeping plants happy easy! You don't have to tinker with water fertilizers or add CO2. Just add soil, plants, supply a decent amount of light and you're set,” she exclaims. Betty has even set up information on a WEB page that provides a summary of the book’s methods as well as a step- by step demo of a tank set up. http://thegab.org/Articles/WalstadTank.html

While some Walstad followers contend any aquarium plant may grow well with this methodology, there is an assumption that slow growing rooted plants will thrive more than very delicate and more finicky stem plants. I will focus on two such plants that deserve to be in the spotlight.

Nuphar japonica
From lakes and rivers in Japan, the light green almost translucent leaves make this water lily an especially decorative plant in the aquarium. It grows from a thick creeping rhizome that looks like a chunk of raw pineapple. The growth is slow so that it is easily managed and rarely do the leaves reach the water surface when lighting is more subdued.

Sagittaria subulata
Called “dwarf sag” this grass like plant grows easily in the aquarium with little effort. Above the water the leaves take on a spoon like shape. Underwater the plant reaches a maximum height of about six inches and may be trimmed to maintain a shorter height.
Both of these plants are a worthy addition to any freshwater aquarium and thrive with little special attention

Plants for a Discus Aquarium

2008-06-29T19:41:00.000-07:00

The Planted Tank
Plants for a Discus Aquarium
originaly published March 08 in FAMA magazine, unedited version

By Robert Paul Hudson

Often, I am asked by hobbyists, what plants are most suitable for aquariums that house the mighty Discus fish. Most people are not looking to create a Discus biotope, but are concerned about the affect of the high temperatures often maintained by Discus keepers on the plants.
To some extent this is a valid concern. Many of the plants we use do not come from true tropical regions. Sustained temps above 80 degrees F will slow down the plants metabolism causing slow or stagnant growth. Oxygen saturation in water temps above 82 degrees is lower than it is in cooler water. Healthy, growing plants will keep oxygen levels higher as the plants photosynthesize, so it is important to keep plants that will not stop growing in warm water.
Many people keep Discus fish in very soft and acidic water. This is another factor to take into account when choosing plants. If the hobbyist stays within moderate water parameters and temperature boundaries a wider range of plants may be used. The more extreme acidic range allows the fewest number of plant species able to adapt while the upper limit, (6.2 to 7.0) supports a greater variety of plants.

There are many Asian plants, particularly very colorful stem plants that are well suited to these conditions, such as Rotala species. Rotala macrandra with it’s deep red rose like appearance is a majestic backdrop to the king of the freshwater aquarium, while the delicate look of Rotala nanjenshan and Mayaca add a soft touch to the aquascape. The slow growing common Cryptocoryne species from Sri Lanka will thrive in acidic water and give dark, earthy colors to the aquascape.

Of course true Amazon plants are a natural fit. This includes all Echinodorus species known as the “Sword Plant”. The Sword family includes short grass like plants such as E. tenellus, E. quadrocostatus, (from Cuba) and E. latifolius, and moderate size sword plants such as E. parviflorus var tropica, to large- tall swords and man made hybrids. These plants are highly adaptable to most any conditions as long as there is adequate light and nutrients.

There are South American plants that thrive under rather extreme acidic conditions, but are much more difficult to find in the hobby. Plants such as various Tonina species, and Ludwigia inclinata species, (there are several regional and sub species) are delicate stem plants that sport stunning colors and shapes. Cabomba furcata is a soft water plant native to the region that becomes bright fire engine red at the leaf tips.

Some of the most adaptable stem plants from Asia include Hygrophila species such as H. difformis and corymbosa and all it’s variants. H. difformis, commonly known as Wisteria, will bend over and creep along the substrate if the stems are thin, or grow fairly tall if the stems are thick and strong. The leaves are a pale yellow-green and finely pinnate giving it a fern like appearance. H. corymbosa has several variant species that share one thing: they are BIG! The stems are thick, woody, and almost as big as a pencil and grow to be over 20 inches tall with broad or long leaves. Also known as Giant Hygro, Green Temple, Nomaphila stricta, Hygrophila stricta, and variants such as angustifolia or siemensis.

Common Aquarium Plants known to prefer temperatures below 78F
Cabomba caroliniana
Didiplis diandra
Bacopa caroliniana
Ludwigia repens
Lobelia cardinalis
Cardamine lyrata
Aponogeton species
Bolbitis heteroclita
Lysimachia nummularia, (known as Loydiella or Creeping Jenny)

Soft/acidic water plants
Tonina sp.
Cabomba furcata
Ludwigia inclinata
Ludwigia ‘cuba’
Pogostemon stellatus
Eichhornia azurea
Rotala macrandra
Rotala macrandra narrow leaf
Rotala wallachii
Rotala nanjenshan
Myriophyllum tuberculatum
Mayaca fluviatilis
Limnophila hippuroides
Common Cryptocoryne species

Highly adaptable plants
Echinodorus
Microsorum pteropus, (Java fern)
Hygrophila species
Anubias species
Alternanthera reineckii
Ammania sp.
Blyxa sp
Crinum sp
Ceratopteris, (Indian fern)
Sagittaria sp
Rotala rotundifolia, (also known as indica)

Amazon Plants
Echinodorus
Hydrocotyle
Eichhornia
Alternanthera reineckii
Bacopa lanigera
Bacopa myriophylloides
Cabomba furcata
Egeria najas
Egeria densa
Eleocharis acicularis
Gymnocoronis spilanthoides
Heteranthera zosterfolia
Lilaeopsis brasiliensis, (Micro sword)
Lilaeopsis carolinensis, (Jumbo Micro sword)
Potamogeton gayi
Tonina fluviatilis

Other factors to take into account are tank size, lighting, C02 and low maintenance or high maintenance. If you do not want to reach into your aquarium frequently to prune and re plant, then you do not want to have fast growing stem plants. Low growing carpet plants such as E. tenellus and Lilaeopsis struggle more to grow in water greater than 24” deep. Amazon Swords need plenty of room when they reach over 24” in height and support a girth of 50 to 100 leaves.
A typical aquascape for Discus includes some open area with ground cover plants and areas of tall plants to provide a retreat for the fish. Groups of plants in middle areas may be kept at varying height to make the view more three-dimensional.

I do not keep Discus myself and I cannot speak from experience in regards to the beliefs some hold that Discus must be kept in bare bottom tanks without plants, or that Discus cannot tolerate intensive light, or C02, or that they must be kept in straight RO water. However, for twenty years I have known many professional hobbyists that have successfully broken these rules to keep both Discus and plants healthy and happy together. Plants help to keep the aquarium clean and stable and provide cover for the fish. Discus and plants together create a visual splendor that rivals any majestic reef I have ever seen.

Potassium in the planted tank

2008-06-29T19:24:00.000-07:00

The Planted Tank
By Robert Paul Hudson
Potassium in the planted tank

Previously we have talked about the various nutrients plant in the aquarium use, which are categorized as either macro- nutrients, (those used in large amounts) or minor nutrients, (those they use in small amounts). Potassium is a macro- nutrient that is often ignored and not understood.

Potassium (K) plays a key role in a vast array of physiological processes vital to plant growth. Potassium deficiency is characterized by reduced plant growth and a yellowing or burning of the leaf edges. Since potassium is mobile in the plant, the symptoms appear on the older leaves first. Another indication of potassium deficiency is reduced stem or stalk strength, which results in reduced disease resistance.

Lets talk about these physiological processes:

Enzyme Activation
Enzymes serve as catalysts for chemical reactions, being utilized but not consumed in the process. They bring together other molecules in such a way that the chemical reaction can take place. Potassium "activates" at least 60 different enzymes involved in plant growth. The K changes the physical shape of the enzyme molecule, exposing the appropriate chemically active sites for reaction. Potassium also neutralizes various organic anions and other compounds within the plant, helping to stabilize pH between 7 and 8, which is optimum for most enzyme reactions. The amount of K present in the cell determines how many of the enzymes can be activated and the rates at which chemical reactions can proceed. Thus, the rate of a given reaction is controlled by the rate at which K enters the cell.

Stomatal Activity
Plants depend upon K to regulate the opening and closing of stomates: the pores through which leaves exchange carbon dioxide (CO2), water vapor, and oxygen (O2). Proper functioning of stomates is essential for photosynthesis, water and nutrient transport, and plant cooling.
Photosynthesis The role of K in photosynthesis is complex. The activation of enzymes by K and its involvement in adenosine triphosphate (ATP) production is probably more important in regulating the rate of photosynthesis than is the role of K in stomatal activity. When the sun's energy is used to combine CO2 and water to form sugars, the initial high-energy product is ATP. The ATP is then used as the energy source for many other chemical reactions. The electrical charge balance at the site of ATP production is maintained with K ions. When plants are K deficient, the rate of photosynthesis and the rate of ATP production are reduced, and all of the processes dependent on ATP are slowed down. Conversely, plant respiration increases which also contributes to slower growth and development. In some plants, leaves move toward light sources to increase light interception or away to avoid damage by excess light, in effect assisting to regulate the rate of photosynthesis. These movements of leaves are brought about by reversible changes in turgor pressure through movement of K into and out of specialized tissues.
Transport of Sugars Sugars produced in photosynthesis must be transported through the phloem to other parts of the plant for utilization and storage. The plant's transport system uses energy in the form of ATP. If K is inadequate, less ATP is available, and the transport system breaks down. This causes photosynthates to build up in the leaves, and the rate of photosynthesis is reduced An adequate supply of K helps to keep all of these processes and transportation systems functioning normally.

Water and Nutrient Transport
Potassium also plays a major role in the transport of water and nutrients throughout the plant in the xylem. When K supply is reduced, translocation of nitrates, phosphates, calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and amino acids is depressed. As with phloem transport systems, the role of K in xylem transport is often in conjunction with specific enzymes and plant growth hormones. An ample supply of K is essential to efficient operation of these systems.

Protein Synthesis
Potassium is required for every major step of protein synthesis. The "reading" of the genetic code in plant cells to produce proteins and enzymes that regulate all growth processes would be impossible without adequate K. When plants are deficient in K, proteins are not synthesized despite an abundance of available nitrogen (N). Instead, the raw materials of proteins (known as precursors) such as amino acids, amides and nitrate accumulate.

Starch Synthesis
The enzyme responsible for synthesis of starch (starch synthetase) is activated by K. Thus, with inadequate K, the level of starch declines while soluble carbohydrates and N compounds accumulate. Photosynthetic activity also affects the rate of sugar formation for ultimate starch production. Under high K levels, starch is efficiently moved from sites of production to storage organs.

Potassium compounds

Potassium chloride, KCl, is the most abundant of potassium compounds. It is perhaps best known as a sodium free table salt substitute. It is also an ingredient in many chemical fertilizers and is used in the manufacture of other chemicals.
Potassium nitrate, KNO3, is used in chemical fertilizers, in gunpowder and match heads
Potassium sulfate, K2SO4, is used as a fertilizer
Potash. A generic and commercial name for naturally occurring potassium salts. Its name is derived from pot ashes denoting the ancient method of leaching wood ashes for their potassium carbonate content and concentrating the extract in iron pots.

Practical use
Most advanced hobbyists keep K levels anywhere from 10 to 20ppm, although there has been no real hard data to determine what the ideal level is and reliable potassium test kits are hard to find. Potassium is commonly part of “all inclusive” types of commercial fertilizers made for the aquarium, and is available in combination with nitrogen, (N) and phosphate (p) in garden fertilizers. Potassium compounds such as KNO3 may also be purchased raw in bulk.
Potassium is an important cog in the machine that regulates plant growth, but only a cog that is also dependent on the rest of the machine to keep the plants we love vibrant, strong, and healthy.

A Forest of One

2008-05-31T14:43:00.000-07:00

"Pinheiro manso" tank and photo by Filipe Oliveira

A Forest of One
by Robert Paul Hudson

I reach toward the breaking clouds. My roots are anchored well, as the wind tests my strength. My trunk is thick and strong, having withstood many seasons. Around me is nothing but an abyss- a world of no consequence as the warm glow touches me, envelopes me, fills me.

I reach toward the sun. I am a forest of one.

The Minimalistic Aquascape: When less is more

2008-05-30T18:29:00.000-07:00

August 07 FAMA Planted Tank unedited
by Robert Paul Hudson
Thanks for your columns, I really enjoy them and always learn something new! I have a question about what type of plants I can add to my 55 gal tank.

Currently I have an Amazon Sword (doing very well), water Wisteria (not rooting, but still alive after three months), green Wendtii, and what I believe to be Ludwigia. The last plant is dark red and green, but has small round leaves, growing directly from the stem.

I have two 18” fluorescent lights that are on about 10 hrs a day. The tank also receives indirect morning sunlight and indirect late afternoon sunlight. I feed the plants with a liquid fertilizer once a week. The tank has two hang on power filters as well as a 6” long airs stick attached to an air pump.

My water is soft, the pH of the tank is neutral, and the water temp stays around 82F. I have two pieces of driftwood that I would like to attach some sort of plants to, what varieties would be good for that? What other plants would be acceptable for these conditions? I had corkscrew val, but my rainbow fish ate them, roots and all. Additionally, what supplements/fertilizers do you recommend? My tank is well established, so I’m not sure if doing any sort of substrate at this point would be a good idea. Don’t you have to have an empty tank to lay laterite or Flourite?

Thanks for your advice.

Regards,

Cherie Sandifer
Amissville, VA

I am glad you enjoy my column. It is nice to hear that. The most critical issue with plants is always light. If your Wisteria and other stem plants are not taking root, then the light is simply not intensive enough. Two eighteen inch fluorescents on a 55 gallon tank is not very much light, and while the sunlight helps, it apparently is not enough. Without upgrading your light, your best bet is to stay with slow growing rooted plants.

Plants such as Anubias, (nana, barteri, coffefolia) Java fern, (Microsorum) African Fern, (Bolbitis heudelotii), and various mosses make very attractive natural scenes when attached to wood. Cryptocoryne wendtii, lucens, lutea, beckettii and other common varieties grow into nice bushes with earthy colors of green, copper, bronze, and brown/red and will fill areas in the middle of the aquascape in and around the wood.

If your aquarium is well established, I would not worry about the substrate. A well- aged substrate is rich in nitrogen and any other needed nutrients may be added to the water or to the substrate with a fertilizer tablet. Check out the library on my WEB site for more information and ideas, www.aquabotanic.com.

By keeping the aquascape simple with a small number of plant species, you can create an elegant and picturesque, natural looking scene. There is beauty in simplicity. Many people call this a minimalistic aquascape.

A minimalistic aquascape to me is like shouting without yelling. It is the stoic, strong oak tree that is an island in a grassy pasture. The golden dessert sand dunes against the back drop of a red summer’s dawn sky. Nature is full of countless examples of the sheer awe in simplicity. It is no surprise then that some people have been successful at turning this into an art form in the aquarium.

Minimalistic art forms in the aquarium

Different forms of aquascaping can incorporate this concept. The nature-scene style takes a snap shot representation of a scene from nature such as a mountain meadow, a dark forest, a dry stream- bed, or a true underwater landscape. The Iwagumi style of aquascaping takes principals of the Iwagumi Japanese landscape and gardening philosophy and applies it to the aquarium. The arrangement of rocks is the key to the design. A biotope representation, whether it is true or mock, has a small number of plant species strategically placed to be artful as well as true to form.

Create your own form and flow

You do not have to be an artist to create your own minimalistic style. James Portway created his with little effort. Only two plants are used: Hemianthus callitrichoides and Dwarf Hairgrass, (Eleocharis). Hemianthus callitrichoides , (HC) is small leafed plant that hugs the substrate creating a pillowy carpet. It is very hard to find this plant in the USA commercially. The same effect may be created using Glossostigma, a clover like carpet plant.

Wood, rocks, and other objects often referred to as the ‘hardscape”, play an important role in the minimalistic aquascape. The hardscape and negative space becomes the key element of the whole visual impact. What would James Portway’s aquascape be like without the rocks? Hardscape objects may be dominate in the aquascape or play a submissive role providing obscure detail and subtlety. It all depends on the big picture and how everything ties together.

Creating a field with a rock or wood formation is an easy aquascape for a beginner and very picturesque , as is wood covered in plants as earlier discussed. Anubias, ferns and moss are hardy, resilient and grow naturally on wood. With just those three plants one can create an intoxicating scene ripped from the pages of a nature magazine. The only limitation is your own imagination, not the number of plant species.

If you want to try something more like a traditional garden than a grassy field or wood piles, a minimalistic approach can be done by grouping a small number of plant species. What makes it interesting is how the plants are grouped and how the groups interact. Take a look at the photo by Norbert Sabat. Just a small number of plant species consisting of stem plants and moss is used to create a stunning design. To look at it, it appears simple and yet the contrast and depth of field and how the plants are trimmed is very precise. Only a person with an artistic awareness can pull that off.

People are drawn into looking at something that appears simple but at the same time very finely detailed. It is soothing, relaxing, but engaging. It may stir memories or recognizable images.

A minimalistic approach to aquarium gardening is a way for someone to explore and experiment with their artistic sense, but for the plant enthusiast who’s zest for plants is like a child in a candy store, minimalisim is impossible!

Plants discussed here

Anubias nana
Anubias barteri
Anubias coffefolia
Microsorum (Java Fern)
Vesicularia dubyana, (Java moss)
Bolbitis heudelotii
Cryptocoryne wendtii, lucens, lutea, beckettii
Hemianthus callitrichoides
Eleocharis
Glossostigma

For more information on these plants, visit www.aquabotanic.com and www.aquaticplantcentral.com on the internet.

Thanks to James Portway and Norbert Sabat for providing the photos.

A Root-bound Garden

2008-05-30T17:28:00.000-07:00

FAMA Planted Tank Column December 07 unedited

By Robert Paul Hudson

I have a 39 gallon tank that has been set up for almost 2 years. The tank is now quite overgrown. The planting arrangement is now a mess with tall and short plants all mixed together instead of where I want them. Should I take all of the plants out and replant the entire tank or remove just the plants that are not where they should be even though they are very pretty and healthy. I kind of would like to add some red colored plants and more sand and rocks but certainly hate wouldn't want to hurt any of the perfectly healthy plants that I have.

I have been looking at your gallery of pictures and really would like to make my tank a little more organized and beautiful like many of those.

Sandy McKnight
Via the internet

There is no simple answer to your question. It is all a matter of taste, as far as the question of re-arranging, and how much time you want to spend at it. You can certainly re arrange the plants any way you want. Moving plants should have no affect on their continued health and vitality, but some plants after being transplanted may stop growing for a little while until they re-adjust themselves. If the tank is REALLY overgrown, your gravel bed becomes like a root bound potted plant. This may affect the growth of the plants. Some people every few years tear their tank down completely, remove all the plants and fish and sift thru the substrate pulling out any roots that are left and aerate the substrate. If you do this, do not clean the gravel, or remove the sludge at the bottom. Your gravel will contain beneficial bacteria and the sludge is actually a good nutrient source for the plants. It will take some time however for everything to settle down after you have stirred everything up. When you replant and fill the tank back up with water, you may want to change the water a couple times if it looks too cloudy. Make sure there is no silt covering the plants.

One way to tell if your substrate is root bound or compacted is to poke your finger into it. If you can poke it thru easily then there should not be a problem.

To re-arrange plants without tearing everything down and removing the fish , it should be done with great care to cause as little disturbance to the substrate as possible. When you pull up a plant the roots will unearth all sorts of things that may be good for the plants, but not released into the water. If you have soil under the substrate you really want to avoid releasing it into the water column. Heavy amounts of free-floating decaying organic material will cause algae outbreaks, a decrease in oxygen, and irritate fish respiration. To avoid this, pull up any plant slowly and if you feel resistance pull out some gravel from around the roots with your other hand as you are pulling out the plant. As the roots emerge, gently shake them to try and release some of the garbage while still close to the gravel. Try and pull out any broken roots, but if it ends up being a very long thick root you are better off leaving it alone because it will just rip up the entire substrate.

Large plants will have large root systems. Echinodorus, (Sword plants), Crinums, (Water onion) Nymphaea species, (water lilies) are notorious for developing massive root systems which may cover the entire bottom of your aquarium. Even some stem plants may over time have significant root systems.

Some plants have runners either above the gravel or under the gravel. These grass like plants may have relatively shallow roots, but be connected to runners stretching all over the tank. These plants are usually pretty easy to pull up and less of a mess may be created if you cut the runners whenever possible and then pull up the plants individually.

Once you have removed all the desired plants, soak them in luke warm water and examine the roots. If any appear black, soft and squishy, cut those off. If the plants have very long and intricate roots, you can trim it all the way back to a few inches from the plant without causing any harm.

If you have bulb plants, such as Aponogetons, examine the bulb and look for any soft spots. If you find any that are small cut them out and when you replant it leave it sitting on the gravel instead of burying it.

Low growing carpet like plants such as Glossostigma should be thinned out regularly to prevent it from growing in layers on top of itself. This can usually be done without causing any great disturbance.

After any major re-arrangement, planting, and pruning, do a 50% water change and then go back again and vacum/siphon out any silt that has settled on anything. For the sake of your fish and not to shock them, do not add cold water or hot water. Try to keep the temp even and tepid. The plants won't care so much, (except perhaps Cryptocorynes) but the fish will appreciate as
much stability as possible.

Be aware that anytime you do a major pruning or re-arranging you will probably throw out of wack whatever balance and equilibrium you may have achieved because most likely you will have significantly less plant mass and transplanted plants may be in shock. If you are on some type of fertilization schedule as we talked about in a previous column, you may have to re-calibrate your system. (Lower your fertilization doses until the plants begin growing faster and have additional body mass).

I am pleased you find aquascaping inspiration from my WEB site. If you are looking for guidance in aquascaping, just think of your aquarium as a backyard garden. How would you plant a flower garden? Would you group plants by color, shape and size? You do not have to be a professional landscaper to create an attractive flower garden, and you do not need to be an aquascape artist to create an attractive aquarium garden. Do what pleases you and gives you enjoyment. You can make minor adjustments or re-arrange plants as often as you wish until you find something you like as long as you bear in mind the health of your fish and keep your water clean and fresh!

Improving on Nature: Hybrids and Cultivars

2008-05-30T11:48:00.000-07:00

Indian Red Sword photo by the author

By Robert Paul Hudson
This article originaly appeared in Aquarium Fish Magazine, 2006

Outdoor gardeners have long appreciated the beauty of hybrid roses, begonias, and countless other man made strains featuring colorful plumes and varying shapes. Commercial growers of aquarium plants have brought us many attractive variations of Natures’ own beauty as well. In the early 1980s nurseries began experimenting with cross breeding Echinodorus species to create new variations for unique coloring with the goal of being faster growing and easier to keep. Some suitable hybrids were discovered and became popular staples of the hobby. This practice was continued with other plant genus. Major growers in the USA, Europe, and Asia have all developed hybrid/cultivars. The largest number have come from growers in Europe and Asia such as Hans Barth, Dennerle, Tropica Plants of Denmark, and Oriental Aquarium of Singapore. Some cultivars make a considerable contribution to the protection of natural species by providing an alternative that has more rapid growth for mass production and a more desirable appearance.

Sometimes these cultivars are the result of an accidental mutation. The “Oriental” sword is said to be a spontaneous mutation, which appeared during the in vitro culture of Echinodorus “Rose” in the aquatic plant nursery Oriental Aquarium of Singapore resulting in the name “Oriental”. The crossing of two species happens in nature as well the lab and continues to produce attractive new varieties for hobbyists. The “Red Rubin” sword was the result of cross breeding between Echinodorus horemanii red and the E. x barthii by the grower Hans Barth. Hygrophila polysperma var tropic sunset was patented in 1985 by Florida Aquatic Nurseries, and became one of the most popularly used plants in the hobby because of its rapid growth under most any tank conditions and its bright pink coloring. In recent years its rampant growth capability has made it a federal noxious weed in the United States.

Two hobbyist favorites are the E. red rubin for the tall strap like leaves which are dark red with yellow veins, and the Horemanii red with a similar leaf shape but much darker red. Others include the Ozelot, the Oriental, the Red Flame, the Kleiner bar and the Indian red. The lesser known Schlueteri leopard sword is an interesting cultivar that features oval shaped leaves with red spots, and usually only reaches a maximum height of twelve to fifteen inches. It does not readily reproduce, which makes the plant more difficult to find commercially. Some Echinodorus hybrids, such as the “leopard”, “parviflorus var tropica” and the “harbich” were developed specifically to be smaller in size than the original parents, making them more attractive to a variety of aquarium sizes.

The west African Anubias genus has long been used in the aquarium for their ability to tolerate low light conditions and for their attractive thick fleshy looking leaves. All Anubias species are rather undemanding to grow in the aquarium, making them a good choice for new hobbyists. Only those species that are too big for the aquarium are unsuitable. New Anubias cultivars are becoming accessible to the hobbyist. A cultivar is achieved by genetic manipulation and selective tissue culture to carry on certain traits such as leaf shape, size and coloration. Anubias nana, which is the smaller round leaf variety of Anubias barteri, now has several variations of its own. Anubias nana “petite” is the smallest with thumbnail size leaves.

Petite nana may be used quite effectively in small aquariums as a foreground plant, and may be planted either in the substrate or attached to wood or rock. The leaves grow in thick clusters on small creeping rhizomes. As the plant matures and is propogated, new leaf growth may be normal “nana” size as the mutation is lost.

Other new Anubias nana cultivars include “stardust” which has a white-powdered looking stripe down the middle of each leaf, the “narrow leaf” which has more slender leaves that come to a point, and “marble-leaf”, or “variegated” which are a swirl of green and white.

Microsorum pteropus, known as “Java Fern”, is one of the most widely used plants because of its tolerance of low light conditions. It has two cultivar versions originating from Tropica Plants of Denmark. The “Windelov” cultivar, named after the owner of Tropica Plants and sometimes called the “Java Lace fern”, is characterized by lacey fronds at the end of the leaves, while the “Tropica” cultivar is a large leaf variety with a more triangle shape and deep sinuate. Both were derived from culture of the same parent plants collected in Java.

Choosing your cultivars

The criteria for choosing your cultivar is the same as choosing any plant for your aquarium—size and growing requirements. Many wild species of Echinodorus ultimately grow very large and are suitable only for large aquariums. However, some cultivar species range from fairly small to moderately large. Many of these plants that feature dark red coloring are ideal as the primary focal point of the aquascape design, and really stand out in the rear of the aquarium. Smaller species may be used as accents or fillers in the middle of the aquascape. Light requirements for most Echinodorus are moderate and respond well to substrate fertilization and well-aged substrates rich in mulm. This makes them ideal for new hobbyists who are reluctant to invest in expensive lighting and C02 systems. It is best to plant Echinodorus at least four to six inches apart. Try to find out what the average mature size of the plant is before purchasing it, or be prepared to remove it the plant in six to twelve months if it becomes too large.

As previously stated, Anubias species are a good choice for new hobbyists because of their tolerance of minimal light conditions. The cultivar species range from quite small to moderate size and are usually used as an accent foreground or middle-ground plant in large aquariums, or a background plant in small aquariums. These plants grow very slowly, so faster growing plants that are too close could overgrow the Anubias.

Hybrid/cultivars that have not become commonly available are becoming more accessible to hobbyists from stores and online dealers that specialize in imported plants. As interest is growing more cultivars are being developed. Terrestrial and pond plant hybrid/cultivars have long received special recognition and awards from botanical societies. No such recognition exists for aquarium cultivars, but there should be! Many hobbyists are becoming interested is collecting various cultivars from a specific genus such as Echinodorus. I take a great deal of pride in my collection of cultivars and hybrids, particularly those that are difficult to find. It adds a whole new dimension of beauty and appreciation to the hobby of aquarium plants.

Going Dutch

2008-05-30T10:16:00.000-07:00

By Robert Paul Hudson
This article appeared in January 08 Freshwater and Marine Aquarium Magazine

For decades the tradition of the Dutch planted aquarium has carried on changing very little. For years I have tried to find information behind the mystique of this tradition and thanks to the internet I was finally able to meet some Dutch masters and learn more details of this very beautiful art form

The traditional Dutch planted aquarium is defined as an underwater garden where plants are arranged in groups that compliment each other to make up an overall composition that shows contrast in color and shape, as well as depth of field. Some people have compared it to an English terrestrial garden, but the Dutch people I spoke to do not give it any such label or influence. To them it is simply the way it is done and has always been done for decades.

When you see the real thing, it is unmistakable. Rich contrast. Subtle color. Pathways that ascend into darkness. This is what has been fine tuned from generations of hobbyists who compete in a national organization called NBAT, (National Bond Aqua-Terra), which consists of 122 local club affiliations that are divided into fifteen districts. People first compete at the local club level. The club winners of five categories, (Freshwater Plants. Biotopes , Saltwater, Paludariums and Terrariums, Ponds) go on to compete against the other club winners within their district. The district winners then compete against each other nationally. At each stage a judge comes to the home to judge the aquarium.

This is serious business! To become an NBAT judge, one must pass an exam and go thru about three years of training!

Judging criteria for the planted aquarium

· Overall layout and composition of the aquascape. No more than one plant specie for every four inches of tank length. Use of color and contrast
· Appropriate number of fish to the size of the aquarium and schooling fish should be at least ten
· Compatibility of fish species and other animals
· Overall health of the fish and plants
· Appropriate water conditions for the needs of the inhabitants
· Optimal temperature
· Appropriate levels of nitrate, phosphate, and hardness
· Gravel or sand should be very low against the front glass
· All equipment should be out of view

Layout techniques

There are some basic rules of thumb to Dutch plant layout design:

It is very important to keep a sense of harmony and simplicity, and for this reason having no more than one plant specie per four inches of tank length is very important. This keeps the groups of plants well defined and not over powering.

Like many artists, the Dutch use the rule of thirds. Divide the tank length into thirds and create a major focal point, (red plant, large plant, wood or rock) at the one third and second third lines. Never, never place a focal point dead center!

Variation in color, leaf structure and height are very important, other wise you end up with one solid wall of indistinctive plants going the length of the aquarium. To better emphasize these contrasts, spaces are left between groups of plants and ascending rows of plants, (streets or pathways) help to add depth of field. Also the creation of “see-thrus”, (sparsely planted groups, or groups of plants with spaces between leaves that allow you to see the background behind the group) give a greater sense of depth. While color and contrast is important, the over use of it is distracting and takes away from the sense of balance and uniformity.

The Dutch plant aquarium does not have a large amount of open floor space. At least 80% of the aquarium floor should be planted.

Traditional Plants

Dutch Streets
There are several traditional plants that are used for specific reasons. The Dutch “street” is a pathway of low growing plants set at the viewing angle and ascends toward the rear creating depth of field. Saurus cernuus and Lobelia cardinalis are most often used for this purpose. When the plants grow too tall they are simply replaced with shorter ones. Some hobbyists keep a grow-out tank of just these two plants to have a ready supply of plants at various heights. In recent years a smaller version of Lobelia cardinalis has been created commercially.

Plant Groups
Hygrophila corymbosa and Limnophila aquatica have been commonly used for decades. They are both large stem plants that have a strong visual effect and grow quickly. By continually topping off the stem when they grow too tall and re-planting the tops, they remain healthy and bushy and the desired look is always retained.

Small Cryptocoryne species including wendtii, becketti, lucens, lutea, and walkeri are all used in groups or rows from the front to the middle. Their dark earthy colors provide a nice contrast and once planted are left alone for years.

For color highlights, Alternanthera reineckii, Ammania, and Rotala species are long time favorites. Ludwigias and Eusteralis stellata, (now known as Pogostemon stellatus) are also sometimes used. Other types of focal points may include various Sword plants, Tiger Lotus, Aponogetons, and other large plants that stand alone as a solitary plant. Rarely will you see more than one full grown large plant in a Dutch aquascape.

Java moss is often used to provide dark contrast between plant groups and sometimes as an actual focal point on a large piece of wood.

The foreground is essential. It should be neat, tidy, and blend into the background. It may consist of contrasting groups, but different species are never mixed together in the same group. Sometimes a foreground group may become or blend into an ascending street. Small grass like plants such as E. tenellus are most often used next to groups of small Cryptocorynes and streets.

New Plants

Plants newer to the hobby are beginning to find their way into traditional aquascapes. I was surprised to see Pogostemon helferi in Fred van Wezel’s aquarium. This plant was discovered in Thailand a few years ago where it is called “Dou noi” meaning “little star”. It has a rather unique leaf shape and when planted in groups like this makes an interesting foreground. Under bright light the plant remains compact and gives off side shoots with new plants. Under weak light it grows more vertical. In it’s natural habitat, the plant grows in iron rich clay and calcium carbonate which makes it ideal for the aquarium and a no brainer for the Dutch aquascaper. Pogostemon helferi is just now becoming available in the USA.

Terracing

Terracing is a component of Dutch aquascaping but it is done on a simple basis. The substrate is raised in areas most often using only driftwood. Plants are also attached to wood solely for the purpose of creating the illusion of an ascending substrate. In more elaborate layouts plant walls are created against the glass using sheets of cork or even corkbark to attach plants to. Terraces are used for the specific purpose of creating more depth perception and are tied to a viewing angle and “street”. A good Dutch aquascape gives a different special perspective depending on which angle you are viewing it from: the left, the right, or full frontal.

Equipment

There is an expression used in this country, “Dutch aquarium” which apparently means an aquarium without any filtration, subdued or natural lighting, little or no equipment. I do not know where this term came from. It might have been true at the turn of the previous century, but it is certainly not true today. Hobbyists in the Netherlands pretty much use the same equipment we do even in traditional aquariums. The lighting may be somewhat less intense than American high tech aquariums and standard fluorescents are normally used, but canister filters or sumps are the most common filtration systems and C02 is injected in a range of 15 to 20ppm. Clay or laterite substrates are used and fertilization doses of iron and minerals are done on a regular basis. Some people mix their own stock solutions while others use commercial products.

Willem van Wezel is one of the revered veterans of this tradition that I had the good fortune to speak with. 58 years old, he has been competing since he was 18 years old. He has won several club championships, a few district championships and twice finished second in the national competition. His older brother and two Uncles help tutor him in the hobby, but he quickly developed his own style. He has passed this tradition on to his son Fred who is 33 years old and won championship of his club after only four years in the hobby. Willem is active in a Dutch online forum called Veni Vidi Vissie, where he tries to help educate young people who are interested in the hobby. He also writes for the Dutch magazine, The Aquarium.

The Future

What does the future hold for this tradition? It may be shaky. The majority of the competitors are now over the age of 50. According to Willem and others I talked to the younger generation does not have the patience and time to maintain such an aquarium. One gentleman told me if someone wants to learn this tradition, they shouldn’t expect to become an expert for the first couple decades! Young people today do not seem to think past a couple months never mind a couple decades! Willem is not too concerned. He is having too much fun! “I change my layout around four or five times per year. I really love to change my layout because it is good training for the contests. Working with aquarium plants relaxes me.” He went on to say, “The most beautiful scape you can make is the one that pleases yourself the most. I am the one that has to look at it the whole year through, therefore I am the one that needs to be satisfied.”

More information and photos may be found online at both http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/ and http://www.aquabotanic.com/ . The Dutch forum is located http://www.venividivissie.org/ and can be read in English with an online translator. The majority of the people there do speak English and welcome visitors.

June 08 Planted tank column

2008-05-24T14:59:00.000-07:00

Welcome to the first post of my first blog! I hope people will find this blog entertaining and informative. This is an opportunity for me to get on a little more personal level with people: my customers and readers. I look forward to reading your comments.

In the upcoming June issue of FAMA, (Freshwater and Marine Aquarium magazine) my column focuses on three light senarios taken from actual emails I recieved. The first is in reference to the plant Rotala nanjenshan. Anthony Ragan asks me to define what I mean by medium to bright light. The second scenario is from Jeff Karl who basicaly asks if 32 watts of light on a 75 gallon tank is enough to grow plants. The third scenario involves a set up with very intensive light and I tell Frank Deck some pros and cons of having intensive light levels.

Light is always a hot issue with aquarium plant people, and often debated fervently. While some may earnestly insist on narrowing down the exact lumen, lux, or foot candle level, I like to keep things simple. I have never been interested in heavy scientific details that most people do not understand. I do not care if my rule of thumb is inaccurate or done with a broad brush. As long as it is based on sound principal, general rule of thumbs work very nicely in most cases. I like to be anywhere from 2 to 4 watts of fluorescent light per gallon of water. The low end for lower maintenance and the higher end for faster growth. Low light, high light. To me that is a simple concept that works. Now some people may debate where the border lines are, and where the minimal light threshold begins, but that is OK too. I invite you to read my column, and tell me what you think. Am I way off or dead on?